Materials
• Cotton yarn in three different colours, for body, clothing and socks.
• 2mm crochet
• 12mm safety eyes
• Napa or synthetic padding
• Point marker
• Wool needle
• Scissors
• Pins
• Blush or pink shadow

Abbreviations
MR – magic ring
Ch – chain
lst– Slip Stitch
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Dc – double crochet
BLO– Back loop only
Inc- increase
Dec– decrease
(…) xn– Repeat n times what is indicated inside the parentheses

Head
Rnd 1. MR 6sc (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4. (1sc, 1 inc, 1sc) x 6 (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 6. (2sc, 1 inc, 2sc) x 6 (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 8. (3sc, 1 inc, 3sc) x 6 (48)
Rnd 9. (7sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)
Rnd 10. (4sc, 1 inc, 4sc) x 6 (60)
Rnd 11. (9sc, 1 inc) x 6 (66)
Rnd 12-24. 66sc (66)
We place the eyes on top of the rnd 20 at 14sc apart.
Rnd 25. (9sc, 1 dec) x 6 (60)
Rnd 26. (4sc, 1 dec, 4sc) x 6 (54)
Rnd 27. (7sc, 1 dec) x 6 (48)
Rnd 28. (3sc, 1 dec, 3sc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 29. (5sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)
Rnd 30. (2sc, 1 dec, 2sc) x 6 (30)
Rnd 31. (3sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 32. (1sc, 1 dec, 1sc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 33. (1sc, 1 dec) (12)
Rnd 34. 6 dec (6)
Cut the thread leaving a medium strand to close the fabric.

Nose
Rnd 1. MR 6sc (6)
Rnd 2. 6sc (6)
Rnd 3. (1sc, 1 inc) x 3 (9)
Rnd 4. 9sc (9)
Rnd 5. (2sc, 1 inc) x 3 (12)
Rnd 6. 12sc (12)
Rnd 7. (3sc, 1 inc) x 3 (15)
Rnd 8. 6sc, 3 inc, 6sc (18)
Rnd 9. 3sc, 12hdc, 3sc (18)
Cut the thread leaving a long strand

Ears (x2)
Rnd 1. MR 6sc (6)
Rnd 2. 6sc (6)
Rnd 3. (1sc, 1 inc) x 3 (9)
Rnd 4. 9sc (9)
Rnd 5. (2sc, 1 inc) x 3 (12)
Rnd 6. 12sc (12)
Rnd 7. (3sc, 1 inc) x 3 (15)
Rnd 8. 6sc, 3 inc, 6sc (18)
Rnd 9. 18sc (18)
Rnd 10. (5sc, 1 inc) x 3 (21)
Rnd 11-12. 21sc (21)
Rnd 13. (5sc, 1 dec) x 3 (18)
Rnd 14. (4sc, 1 dec) x 3 (15)
Cut the thread leaving a long strand

Feet (x2)
Rnd 1. MR 6sc (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4. BLO 18sc (18)
Rnd 5. 18sc (18)
Rnd 6. 7sc, 2dec, 7sc (16)
Rnd 7-11. 16sc (16)
Cut the thread leaving a small strand that you will hide later.
Repeat these steps and knit the 2nd leg, but this time DO NOT cut the thread, knit an additional 3 sc (this is done to position the feet correctly and will depend on the tightness you are knitting with), and then I ch.
We join the Ira leg counting 2sc back where we finished, and this will be the 1st stitch of the rnd 12.

Body
Rnd 12. 16sc in the first leg, 1sc in the ch, 16sc in the second leg, 1sc in ch (34)
Rnd 13-16. 34sc (34)
Rnd 17. 7sc, 1dec, 16sc, 1dec, 7sc (32)
Rnd 18. 32sc (32)
Rnd 19. 7sc, 1dec, 14sc, 1dec, 7sc (30)
Rnd 20. 30sc (30)
Rnd 21. 6sc, 1dec, 14sc, 1dec, 6sc (28)
Rnd 22. 28sc (28)
Rnd 23. (5sc, 1dec) x 4 (24)
Cut the thread leaving a long tail to sew the body to the head

Arms (x2)
Rnd 1. MR 7sc (7)
Rnd 2-10. 7sc (7)
Cut the thread leaving a long strand

Clothing
We make 33 ch, we will start working in the 2nd ch.
Row 1. 6 hdc, we leave 4 ch without weaving we make 4 ch in the air, 12 hdc, we leave 4 ch without weaving we make 4 ch in the air, 6 hdc, chain and turn the fabric (32)
Row 2. 4 hdc, 1 inc, 6 hdc, 1 inc, 8 hdc, 1 inc, 6 hdc, 1 inc, 4 hdc, chain and turn the weave (36)
Row 3-4. 36 hdc, chain and turn the weave (36)
Row 5. 9 hdc, 1 inc, 16 hdc, 1 inc, 9 hdc, chain and turn the weave (38)
Row 6-7. 38 hdc, chain and turn the weave (38)
Cut the thread leaving a long thread to close the clothes once located on Dobby’s body.

Sock
Rnd 1. MR 8sc (8)
Rnd 2-3. 8sc (8)
Rnd 4. 3hdc, 2sc, 1slst, 2sc (8)
Rnd 5. 3dc, 2sc, 1slst, 2sc (8)
Rnd 6-7. 8sc (8)
We finish with a slst and cut thread to sew it to the arm

Assembly and details
• Sew the body to the rn v31 of the head, match the 24sc
• Sew the nose to the head between rnd 20 to rnd 25, we center well between the eyes and fill with a little napa
• Sew the ears to the head between rnd 16 to rnd 23 at 8sc away from the eyes
• Sew the arms to the body on rnd 22
• Sewing white thread embroiders the light of the eyes
• If you want, put blush on the cheeks

More Amigurumi Harry Potter Dobby İdeas

Materials
• Yarn alize cotton gold tweed, yarnart jeans.
• Crochet hook size: 1.5mm
• A piece of yellow or brown felt

Abbreviations
MR: Magic ring
Ch: Chain
Sc: Single crochet
Tr: Treble crochet
Inc: Increase
Dec: Decrease
Slst: Slip stitch
BLO: Back loop only
FLO: Front loop only
Dc3tog- Double crochet 3 together

Head
Milk color.
Rnd 1. 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. 1sc,inc,(2sc,inc)*5, 1sc (24)
Rnd 5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30)
Rnd 6. 2sc, inc, (4sc,inc)*5, 2sc (36)
Rnd 7. (5sc,inc)*6 (42)
Rnd 8. 3sc, inc, (6sc,inc)*5, 3sc (42)
Rnd 9. 42 sc
Change yarn to brown.
Rnd 10. BLO: 42 sc
Rnd 11-15. 42 sc
Rnd 16. (6sc,dec)*6 (36)
Rnd 17. (5sc,dec)*6 (30)
Rnd 18. (4sc,dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 19. (3sc,dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 20. (2sc,dec)*6 (12)
Rnd 21. (1sc,dec)*6 (6)
Rnd 22. 6 dec
Insert safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13. Make a yellow iris for the eyes from a piece of felt: cut out circles about 12 mm diameter, make holes in them and insert eyes into them.
The distance between eyes is 12 sts.

Fringe (Milk yarn)
Work FLO round 9, according to the diagram:

Nose (Gray yarn)
Make ch 8.
From the second ch from the hook:
Rnd 1. 5sc, 3sc in 1 stitch, 5sc, slst.
Rnd 2. ch 1, 13 sc, slst.

Tongue
Pink yarn.
Work 6 sc in MR. Do not close a ring. Leave an end for sewing.

Horns
Dark brown yarn.
Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR
Rnd 2-3. 5 sc
Rnd 4. inc, 2sc, inc, 1 sc (7)
Rnd 5-6. 7 sc
Rnd 7. 2 inc , 5sc (9)
Lightly stuff the horns, or do not stuff them at all.
They should have a curved shape.

Ears
Milk yarn.
Work 12 tr in MR. Fold the ear in half and sew to the head.

Cheeks
Beige yarn.
Work the first cheek: make ch6.
From the second ch from the hook:
Rnd 1. 3sc, 3sc in 1 stitch, 3sc, slst.
Rnd 2. (ch1, 1sc) in 1 stitch, then inc, 2sc, 3inc, 2sc, inc, slst.
Cut off the yarn.
Work the second cheek, but do not cut off the yarn.
1. Make ch8.
2. Join the first cheek and work 16 sc (on the first cheek)
3. 8 sc on the chain.
4. 16 sc on the second cheek.
5. 8 sc on the chain.
6. 2 slst on the 1st cheek.
Sew the cheeks to the head, stuff as you go.

Body
Rnd 1. milk: 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. milk: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. gray: (1sc,inc)*2, milk: (1sc,inc)*4 (18)
Rnd 4. gray: (2sc,inc)*2, milk: (2sc,inc)*4 (24)
Rnd 5. gray: (3sc,inc)*2, milk: (3sc,inc)*4 (30)
Rnd 6. gray: (4sc,inc)*2, milk: (4sc,inc)*4 (36)
Rnd 7. gray: (5sc,inc)*2, milk: (5sc,inc)*4 (42)
Rnd 8. gray: (6sc,inc)*2, milk: (6sc,inc)*4 (48)
Rnd 9-14. gray: 16 sc: milk: 32 sc (48)
Rnd 15. gray: (6sc,dec)*2, milk: (6sc,dec)*4 (42)
Rnd 16-18. gray: 14sc, milk: 28 sc (42)
Rnd 19. gray: (5sc,dec)*2, milk: (5sc,dec)*4 (36)
Rnd 20-25. gray: 12sc, milk: 24 sc (36)
Leave a long end for sewing.

Tail
Rnd 1. milk: 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. milk: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. milk: (1sc,inc)*4, gray: (1sc,inc)*2 (18)
Rnd 4-14. milk: 12 sc, gray: 6 sc

Legs (Make 6)
Rnd 1. beige: 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2. beige: 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. beige: (1sc,inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4. brown: dc3tog, 1sc, dc3tog, 1sc, dc3tog, 13 sc (18)
Rnd 5-10. milk: 18 sc (18)
Rnd 11. milk: (4sc,dec)*3 (15)
Rnd 12. milk: 15 sc (15)
Rnd 13. milk: (3sc,dec)*3 (12)
Rnd 14. milk: 12 sc
Rnd 15. (1sc,dec)*4 (8)
Stuff only 2/3 of the leg. Stuff the hole.
Sew all parts: cut an ornament from brown felt for the head, back and tail, sew it with sewing threads. Embroider strips of dark brown yarn on the belly and tail.

More Amigurumi Bison İdeas

Materials
Thread used: tex 295
Needle: 2mm

Abbreviations
MR– magic ring
Sc– single crochet
Inc– increase (2sc in the same stitch)
Dec– Invisible decrease
BLO– Back loop only
Ch– chain
Slst– slip stitch
Tinc– triple increase: 3sc in the same stitch
Tdec– decrease: 3sc at the same time

Boots (x2)
Yellow
Made separately from the body
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. (sc, inc)*6 (18)
Glue some kind of plastic on the left side of the circle
Rnd 4. 18sc BLO (18)
Rnd 5-6. 18sc (18)
Rnd 7. 6sc, 3dec, 6sc (15)
Rnd 8. 15sc (15)
Rnd 9. 15slst (15)
Repeat the process for the 2nd.

Legs / Body
Red
Rnd 1. 5sc in MR (5)
Rnd 2. 5 inc (10)
Rnd 3. (sc, inc)*5 (15)
Rnd 4-5. 15sc (15)
Rnd 6. 4sc, 3dec, 5sc (12)
Rnd 7. 12sc (12)
Cut the yarn
Insert the leg inside the boot
Stuff it after finishing the previous instruction. Repeat the process for the 2nd foot, but do not cut the yarn.
Make 3sc (or as many as necessary to reach the inner side of the leg). These sc should not be considered as part of the round. Join the 2nd leg with the first making 1 ch.
Continue to the body
Rnd 8. 12sc in the 1st leg, 2sc in the joining chains, 12sc in the 2nd leg, 2sc in the joining chains (26)
Rnd 9-10. 26sc
Rnd 11. (11sc, dec)*2 (24)
Rnd 12. (2sc, dec)*6 (18)
Stuff it
Rnd 13. (sc, dec)*6 (12)
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tailto sew the hood to the body.
Finish putting more stuffing.

Hood
Red
5 ch: Crochet around them.
Rnd 1. In the 2nd ch from the hook: tinc, 2sc, tinc, 2sc (10)
Rnd 2. tinc sc, tinc, 2sc, tinc, sc, tinc, 2sc (18)
Rnd 3. sc, tinc, 3sc, tinc, 4sc, tinc, 3sc, tinc, 3sc (26)
Rnd 4. 2sc, tinc, 5sc, tinc, 6sc, tinc, 5sc, tinc, 4sc (34)
Rnd 5. 3sc, tinc, 7sc, tinc, 8sc, tinc, 7sc, tinc, 5sc (42)
Rnd 6. 4sc, tinc, 9sc, tinc, 10sc, tinc, 9sc, tinc, 6sc (50)
Rnd 7-20. 50sc (50)
Rnd 21. 50slst (50)
Cut the yarn.
Before making the head and putting it inside the hood, sew the body to the hood
Pay attention to properly center the body in the correct position when sewing.

Antennas (x2)
Red
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6sc BLO (6)
Rnd 3-8. 6sc (6)
Yellow
Rnd 9. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 10-11. 12sc (12)
Rnd 12. 6dec (6)
Close the opening put a wire inside the two antennas. At the top of the hood, in the desired position, sew the antennae using the loops left over from rnd1.

Heart
Yellow
Inside the MR: 2 ch, dc, hdc, sc, ch, sc, hdc, dc, 2ch, slst.
Close the MR.
Glue or sew it to the body

Head
Skin color
Rnd 1. 6sc in MR (6)
Rnd 2. 6 inc (12)
Rnd 3. sc (tinc, 2sc)*3, tinc, sc (20)
Rnd 4. 2sc, tinc, (4sc, tinc)*3, 2sc (28)
Rnd 5. 3sc, tinc, (6sc, tinc)*3, 3sc (36)
Rnd 6. 4sc, tinc, (8sc, tinc)*3, 4sc (44)
Rnd 7. 5sc, tinc, (10sc, tinc)*3, 5sc (52)
Rnd 8-17. 52sc
Insert a 7mm security eye between 11 a 12 rnd
Rnd 18. 5sc, tdec, (10sc, tdec)*3, 5sc (44)
Rnd 19. 4sc, tdec, (8sc, tdec) *3, 4sc (36)
Stuff it.
Rnd 20. 3sc, tdec, (6sc, tdec)*3, 3sc (28)
Rnd 21. (2sc, dec)*7 (21)
Stuff it lightl
Rnd 22. (sc, dec)*7 (14)
Rnd 23. 7dec (7)
Close the opening. Using glue or sewing, insert the head inside the hood.

Arms (x2)
Skin color
Rnd 1. 5sc in MR (5)
Rnd 2. 5 inc (10)
Red
Rnd 3. 10 slst BLO (10)
Rnd 4. 10sc BLO (10)
Rnd 5. 10sc (10)
Rnd 6. (3sc, dec)*2 (8)
Flat the opening and make 4sc to close it.

Hair
Brown
10 ch: foundation
Hair strand: Make 4 additional ch: In the 2nd from the hook: 3sc, slst in the next ch from the foundation.
Repeat the process for the 2nd and 3rd hair strand. Complete the foundation with slst Glue on the head, next to the hood
Congratulations, you have completed the amigurumi pattern.

More Amigurumi Chapolin İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Designer: Viktoria Rusak
Instagram: @yammi_art

Materials
Gazzal Baby Cotton yarn #3430, #3467, #3411 (165 m/50 g, 40% acrylic, 60% cotton)
2.5 mm crochet hook
Safety eyes
Stitch marker
Yarn needle and scissors
Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R – row
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Arms (make 2)
With grey yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2-3: 6 sc (2 rows)
Change to green yarn:
R 4-9: 6 sc (5 rows)

Legs (make 2)
With grey yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [9]
R 3: 9 sc [9]
Change to green yarn:
R 4-6: 9 sc (3 rows)

Crochet the second leg, do not fasten off.
Make 1 ch and join with the first leg.
Continue crocheting in the body:

Body
R 1: 9 sc on the first leg, 1 sc in 1 ch, 9 sc on the second leg, 1 sc in 1 ch (opposite side) [20]
R 2: inc, 8 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc, inc [24]
R 3: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 4: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 5-8: 36 sc (4 rows)

R 9: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 10: 30 sc
R 11: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 12: 24 sc
R 13: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]

R 14: 18 sc
R 15: join arms: 6 sc, 3 sc together with sc of the 1st arm, 6 sc, 3 sc together with sc of the 2nd arm [18]
R 16: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Change to grey yarn:
R 17: 12 sc
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Head
With pink yarn:
R 1: 5 sc in magic ring [5]
Change to grey yarn:
R 2: (inc) repeat 5 times [10]
R 3: 10 sc

R 4: 2 sc, 6 inc, 2 sc [16]
R 5: 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times, 2 sc [22]
R 6: 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times, 2 sc [28]
R 7: 1 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times, inc, 1 sc [36]
R 8-11: 36 sc (4 rows)

R 12: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 13: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 14: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
R 15: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
R 16: (dec) repeat 6 times [6]
Fasten off.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]

R 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) repeat 5 times, 1 sc [24]
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
Fold the top opening flat and 2 sc through both sides (view video at 01:08:20).
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Tail
Make 10 ch (view video at 01:14:45).
From the 2nd ch from hook 9 sc.
Fasten off.

Sew ears to the head.
Sew head to the body.

Bow
Make a magic ring.
Part 1:
2) 4 ch
3) 4 dc
4) 3 ch
5) 2 sc

Part 2:
6) 3 ch
7) 4 dc
8) 3 ch
9) 2 sc
Pull off the magic ring.

More Amigurumi Mouse İdeas

Materials
Size 4 worsted weight yarn (125g of pink; small amount of white, grey, and beige)
3.5 mm crochet hook
12mm safety eyes
Black crochet/embroidery thread for eyelashes (optional)
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stuffing
Stitch markers

Abbreviations
MC- Magic circle
SC- Single crochet
SC INC- Single crochet increase
INV DEC- Invisible decrease
St(s)- Stitch(es)
Sl st – Slip stitch

Beak
With grey
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)
Round 3: SC around (12)

Round 4: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)
Rounds 5-7: SC around (18)
Change to white
Rounds 8-9: SC around (18)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing onto the head.

Body
With pink
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)
Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30)
Round 6: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (36)
Round 7: SC in the first 5 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (42)
Round 8: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (48)
Rounds 9-15: SC around (48)

Round 16: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (42)
Rounds 17-18: SC around (42)
Round 19: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (36)
Rounds 20-21: SC around (36)
Round 22: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30)

Rounds 23-24: SC around (30)
Round 25: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)
Rounds 26-27: SC around (24)
Round 28: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)
Rounds 29-36: SC around (18)

Here is where we will start the head
Round 37: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)
Round 38: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30)
Round 39: SC in the first 4 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (36)

Round 40: SC in the first 5 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (42)
Round 41: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (48)
Round 42: SC in the first 7 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (54)
Rounds 43-50: SC around (54)

NOTE: Here is where we will attach the facial features. Place the safety eyes 7 stitches apart between rounds 47 and 48. (For a girl version, I recommend sewing on the eyelashes before securing your safety eyes).

Beak – Sew the beak centered between the eyes with a small amount of stuffing.

Cheeks – With your tapestry needle and yarn for cheeks pass through one stitch on either side of your beak just under the eyes.

(Be sure to stuff the neck and shoulders firmly as you go. This will keep the neck sturdy.)
Round 51: SC in the first 7 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (48)
Round 52: SC in the first 6 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (42)
Round 53: SC in the first 5 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (36)
Round 54: SC in the first 4 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (30)

Round 55: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)
Round 56: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)
Round 57: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)
Round 58: INV DEC around (6)
Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end.

Tail
With pink
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)
Rounds 3-4: SC around (12)
Round 5: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 6: SC around (18)
Round 7: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next 6, SC in the last 6 sts (24)
Round 8: SC around (24)
Round 9: *SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next 3 sts*, repeat from * one more time, SC in each of the last 6 sts (30 SC)
Round 10: SC around (30)

Round 11: SC in the first 6 sts, SC INC in the next 3 sts, SC in the next 12 sts, SC INC in the next 3 sts, SC in the last 6 sts (36 SC)
Round 12: SC around (36)
Round 13: SC in the first 15 sts, SC INC in the next 6 sts, SC in the last 15 sts (42)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Wings- 
Make 2 – *I left the wings unstuffed*
(Each wing is made with two “feathers” that we will join together.)

Small Feather: With white
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: SC around (12)

Change to pink
Round 4: SC around (12)
Fasten off

Large Feather: With white
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Rounds 3-4: SC around (12)

Change to pink
Round 5: SC around (12)
Do not fasten off, here is where we will join the feathers and continue the wing.
Round 6: Attach to the first feather with a SC. SC around the first feather and then the second feather (24 SC). This completes your join and is where your next round will start, from here we will work the wing.
Rounds 7-10: SC around (24)
Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body.

Legs
With beige make 2, stuffing as you go
Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC
Round 2: SC INC in each st (12)
Round 3: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)
Round 5: SC in the first 3 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (30)
Rounds 6-7: SC around (30)
Round 8: SC in the first 3 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 9: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)
Round 10: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)
Rounds 11- 20: SC around (12)
Round 21: SC in the first st, SC INC in the next, repeat around (18)
Round 22: SC in the first 2 sts, SC INC in the next, repeat around (24)

Round 23: SC around (24)
Round 24: SC in the first 2 sts, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (18)
Round 25: SC in the first st, INV DEC in the next, repeat around (12)
Rounds 26-34: SC around (12)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly
– First, sew the wings onto the body (top of wing at round 26 and bottom of wing at round 15).
– Next, sew the tail centered onto the back of the body stuffing as you go.
– Lastly, sew the legs centered onto the bottom of your flamingo starting at round 2 and ending at round 5.

More Amigurumi Flamingo İdeas

Materials
-Worsted weight yarn in dark green, red, gold, and white
– 5.0mm (H) Odyssey hook
– Stuffing
– White felt
– Fabric glue
– Black fabric paint 
– Floral wire or white pipe cleaner
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch marker
– Scissors

Abbreviations
Ch = chain
Slp st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Sc dec = single crochet decrease
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only 
FO = finish off

PART ONE
This week we’ll be making the star of the show: the Champagne bottle! Then, next week, we’ll make the glasses so we can all toast to a fabulous new year.

Champagne Bottle
With dark green, ch 2 or magic ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook / ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (18)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (24)

Rnd 5: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (30)
Rnd 6: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (36)
Rnd 7: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 5 sc* rep *-* around (42)
Rnd 8: in BLO, sc dec, sc in next 19 sc, sc dec, sc in last 19 sc (40)

Rnds 9-27: now in both loops, sc in each sc around (40)
Rnd 28: *sc dec, sc in next 8 sc* rep *-* around (36)
Rnd 29: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 30: *sc dec, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (30)
Rnd 31: sc in each sc around (30)
STUFF the bottom of the bottle 

SWITCH color to RED
Rnd 32: *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (24)
Rnd 33: sc in each sc around (24)

SWITCH color to GOLD
Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 35: *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (18)
Rnds 36-40: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 41: *sc dec, sc in next 7 sc* rep *-* around (16)

Rnd 42-43: sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 44: sc in 1st 3 sc, sc dec, sc in next 6 sc, sc dec, sc in last 3 sc (14)
Rnd 45: sc in each sc around (14)
STUFF the neck of the bottle
Rnd 46: in FLO, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 4x, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc (19)
Rnd 47: in BLO, sc in each sc around (19)

Rnds 48-51: now in both loops, sc in each sc around (19)
Rnd 52: in BLO, *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 4x, sc dec, sc in last sc (14)
STUFF the cork
Rnd 53: now in both loops *sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* 4x, sc dec (9)
Rnd 54: sc dec around
FO and use tail to close up hole. Weave in the ends.

Using black fabric paint, daub a little face onto the gold foil of the champagne bottle: allow to dry.
In white felt, cut a rectangle about 2” x 4”. If adding a message, embroider or paint it on now.
Apply fabric glue to the side of the label that you don’t want showing. Pin the felt in place on the front of the bottle and allow to dry. 
Come back next week to make some fancy glassware with us! 

PART TWO
Welcome back to the party! It’s time to grab your hooks and make a few glasses to raise in toast. 

1920’s Champagne Glass (Coupe glass)
With white, ch 2 or magic ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook / ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (18)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (24)
Rnd 5: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (30)
Rnd 6: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (36)
Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 8: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 5 sc* rep *-* around (42)
Rnds 9-12: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 13: in BLO, *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 20 sc* rep *-* around (44) – this will be the rim of the glass
Rnd 14: in BLO, sc in each sc around (44) – starting to build the outside of the glass.
Rnds 15-17: sc in each sc around (44) 

Roll these last 4 rounds down over the interior of the coupe glass, like rolling down the cuff of a sock. Round 13 should form the rim of the glass. Continue working with the interior and exterior of the glass folded like this (we’re working down the glass now, we’ll be decreasing to match the shape of the bowl, and then we’ll start building the stem).

Rnd 18: *sc dec, sc in next 5 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc dec, sc in next 3 sc, sc dec, sc in last 2 sc (37)
Rnd 19: *sc dec, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (31)
Rnd 20: *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (25)
Rnd 21: *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (19)
Rnd 22: *sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (13)
Rnd 23: in FLO, sc in each sc around (13)
Rnd 24: now in both loops, *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 3x, sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 25: *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (8)
Rnds 26-32: sc in each sc around (8)
Rnd 33: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (12)
Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 35: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (18)
FO

Base – make 2
Ch 2 or magic loop / ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (18)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (24)
Rnd 5: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (30)
Rnd 6: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (36)
Rnd 7: sc in 1st 4 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc* rep *-* 5x, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc (42) (offsetting the increases like this helps prevents a hexagon shape)
FO

Sew the two discs together with the right sides facing out (wrong sides together). 

Add a little stuffing to the stem of the glass, and a folded piece of floral wire for stability. Sew the end of the stem (round 35 of the glass) to the center of the base.

If the interior bowl of the glass isn’t keeping its shape because of the little bit of stuffing we added, weave the end up through the stem of the glass and through the center of the cup, then back down (making a small stitch, don’t go back through the same hole you came up through) to pin the interior of the cup down through the stem. Weave in the ends. 

Champagne Flute
With white, ch 2 or magic loop / ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
Rnd 2: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (9)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (12) 
Rnd 4: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (16) 

Rnd 5: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (20) 
Rnd 6: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (24) 
Rnds 7-16: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 17: in BLO, *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 5x (30) – this forms the rim of the glass.
Rnd 18: in BLO, *sc dec, sc in next 13 sc* rep *-* 2x (28) – starting to build the outside of the glass.
Rnds 19-24: sc in each sc around (28)

Roll these last 6 rounds down over the interior of the flute, like rolling down the cuff of a sock. Round 17 should form the rim of the glass. Continue working with the interior and exterior of the glass folded like this (we’re working down the glass now, we’ll be decreasing to match the shape of the interior bowl, and then we’ll start building the stem).

Rnd 25: sc dec, sc in last 25 sc (27)
Rnds 26-29: sc in each sc around (27) 
Rnd 30: *sc dec, sc in next 5 sc, sc dec, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (23)
Rnd 31: *sc dec, sc in next 4 sc, sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (19)
Rnd 32: *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc, sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (15)
Rnd 33: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 34: *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc, sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (11)
Rnd 35: sc in each sc around (11)
Rnd 36: *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* 2x, sc in last sc (9)
Rnds 37-41: sc in each sc around (9)
Rnd 42: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 3x (12)
Rnd 43: sc in each sc around (12)
FO 

Base – make 2 
Ch 2 or magic loop / ring
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (18)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (24)
Rnd 5: *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in 1st 3 sc, *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 5x, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc (36) (offsetting the increases like this helps prevents a hexagon shape)
FO

Sew the two discs together with the right sides facing out (wrong sides together). 

Add a little stuffing to the stem of the glass, and a folded piece of floral wire for stability. Sew the end of the stem (round 43 of the glass) to the center of the base.

If the interior bowl of the glass isn’t keeping its shape because of the little bit of stuffing we added, weave the end up through the stem of the glass and through the center of the cup, then back down (making a small stitch, don’t go back through the same hole you came up through) to pin the interior of the cup down through the stem. Weave in the ends.

More Amigurumi Champagne İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials
Yarn Art Jeans yarn: yellow #35, brown #40, white #62
1.5-2.0 mm crochet hook
6 mm safety eyes
Yarn needle and scissors
Black embroidery floss for eye brows and nostrils
Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R – row
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Head
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [24]
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 7-14: 36 sc (8 rows)

Insert safety eyes between R 10 and R 11 at the distance of 5 st from each other.
R 15: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 16: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 17: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
R 18: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 5 sc in magic ring [5]
R 2: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc [6]
R 3: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 4-8: 12 sc (5 rows)
Do not stuff with fiberfill.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Fold the ear edges together and sew them together

Horns (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 8 sc in magic ring [8]
R 2-3: 8 sc (2 rows)
Change to yellow yarn:

R 4: 3 sc, dec, 3 sc [7]
R 5-7: 7 sc (3 rows)
Stuff the brown part of the horn.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [9]
R 3: 9 sc

Change to yellow yarn:
R 4-10: 9 sc (7 rows)
Stuff the brown part of the arm.
Fold the top opening flat and 3 sc through both sides.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle
With white yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (3 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [15]
R 4: 15 sc
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs and body (one piece)

Legs (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: 1 sc, 5 inc [11]
R 3: 11 sc

Change to yellow yarn:
R 4-7: 11 sc (4 rows)
Fasten off.
Crochet the second leg, do not fasten off.

Make 1 ch on the second leg and join with the first leg.

Body
R 1: 11 sc on the first leg, inc in 1 ch, 11 sc on the second leg, inc in 1 ch (opposite side) [26]
R 2-7: 26 sc (6 rows)
R 8: make dec on the sides of body [24]
R 9-11: 24 sc (3 rows)
R 12: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
R 13: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
R 14-16: 12 sc (3 rows)
Fasten off.

Spots (make 3)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 8 sc in magic ring [8]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail
With yellow yarn:
Make 7 ch.
From the 2nd ch from hook: 6 sl st.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Make a small tassel using brown yarn and sew to the yellow part of the tail.
Cut the brown yarn into six pieces 5-6 cm long

Assembly
Sew horns on the top of the head.
Sew ears to the head
Sew muzzle to the head. Put some fiberfill inside the muzzle before you finish
Sew arms on R 12 of the body
Sew spots to the body
Embroider eye brows and nostrils with black floss

More Amigurumi Giraffe İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Crochet your own funny little bull with this easy-to-follow free amigurumi tutorial. This amigurumi bull is just about 14 cm tall without horns. Please note, size depends on the yarn thickness and the hook size you choose.

Designer: Victoria Rusak
Instagram: @yammi_art

Materials
YarnArt Jeans yarn: beige #73, red #26, pink #36, white #62
Alize Cotton Baby yarn: #240 for horns
2.5 mm crochet hook
6 mm safety eyes
2 buttons for jumpsuit
Black sewing thread
Sewing needle, scissors
Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R – row
ch – chain
st – stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Arms (make 2)
With beige yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [9]
R 3-4: 9 sc (2 rows)

Change to white yarn:
R 5-13: 9 sc by white color (9 rows)
Fold the top opening flat and 4 sc through both sides.
Fasten off.

The legs and body are made as one piece.

Legs (make 2)
With beige yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

R 3: 12 sc
Change to red yarn:
R 4: 12 sc
Crochet the second leg, do not fasten off.

Make 8 ch and join with the first leg.

Continue crocheting the body in the round:
R 1: 12 sc on the first leg, 8 sc in 8 ch, 12 sc on the second leg, 8 sc in 8 ch (opposite side) [40]
R 2: (inc, 19 sc) repeat 2 times [42]
R 3: (6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [48]
R 4: (7 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [54]
R 5: (8 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [60]
R 6-10: 60 sc (5 rows)
R 11: FLO 60 sc

Change to white color:
R 12: 60 sc through the back loops only of  R 10
R 13: (8 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [54]
R 14: (7 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
R 15: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
R 16: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 17: 36 sc

R 18: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 19: 30 sc
R 20: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 21: 24 sc
R 22: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
R 23: 2 sc, 4 sc with 1st arm, 5 sc, 4 sc with 2nd arm, 3 sc
Fasten off.

Head
With beige yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [9]
R 3: (inc) repeat 9 times [18]
R 4: (2 sc, inc)repeat 6 times [24]

R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 7: (5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [42]
R 8: (6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [48]
R 9-15: 48 sc (7 rows)
Insert safety eyes between R 13 and R 14 at the distance of 10 sc from each other.

R 16: (6 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
R 17: (5 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
R 18: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 19: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 20: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (make 2)
With beige yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

R 3-5: 12 sc (3 rows)
Fold in half 2 times and crochet 3 sc through both side of the ear (view video at 14:18).
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle
With pink yarn:
Make 6 ch.
Make an oval, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain.
R 1: from the 2nd ch from hook: inc, 3 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn and on the other side: 3 sc, inc [13]

R 2: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc [17]
R 3: 2 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, inc [23]
R 4: 23 sc
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Horns (make 2)
With grey yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2-5: 6 sc (4 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Upper part of the suit
Count 19 ch in the opposite direction from the beginning of R 11 of the body and continue to crochet the suit, attach the red yarn.
R 1: (dc) repeat 8 times [8]
R 2: dec, 4 dc, dec [6]
Fasten off.

Straps
Make 20 ch.

Assembly
Sew muzzle to the head between R 14 and R 19.
Sew ears on the level of R 11.
Sew horns between R 7 and R 8.

More Amigurumi Bull İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials
Worsted weight (#4) yarn in llama color and two rug colors (R1) and (R2)
G/4.0mm
Scrap bulky yarn for eyes and nose
Stuffing
Yarn needle or tapestry needle
Scissors
Wooden dowel to assist with stuffing

Stitches Used
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Sc dec = single crochet decrease
Slp st = slip stitch

Head

Ch 3

1. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, turn your work so you’re working along the bottom of the ch, 2 sc in same sc as first 2 sc (8)
2. 2 sc in each sc around (16)

 3-5.  Sc in each sc around (16)

6. Sc in 1st 6 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* 3x, sc in last 4 sc (19)
7. Sc in 1st 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc in last sc (24)
8. Sc in 1st 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 7x (31)

 9-14.  Sc in each sc around (31)

15. *Sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (25)
16. *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (19)

STUFF The Head Firmly

17. *sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last sc (13)
18. Sc dec around

FO and use tail end to close up any remaining hole, weave in end.

Neck

Starting with a long tail for assembly, ch 21, join with a slip st to form a ring, be careful not to twist stitches

1. Sc in each sc around (20)
2. *Sc dec, sc in next 8 sc* rep *-* 2x (18)
3. Sc in each sc around (18)
4. Sc dec, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 8 sc (18)
5. Sc in each sc around (18)
6. Sc in 1st 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* 2x, sc in last 3 sc (20)
7. Sc in each sc around (20)
8. Sc in 1st 8 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 2x, sc in last 2 sc (22)
9. Sc in each sc around (22)
10. Sc in 1st 9 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 2x, sc in last 3 sc (24)

11-12.  Sc in each sc around (24)

13. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (30)
14. Sc in each sc around (30)

FO leaving a long tail for assembly. Sew the chain edge of the neck onto the bottom of the head between rounds 8 – 16 of the head. The tallest point (where the chain was joined to form a ring) of the neck should be right at the back of the head when you sew it on, and the oval formed by the first round of the head should be more or less vertical. It helps me to pin the neck in place before sewing so I can make adjustments before committing.

Ears (make 2)

Ch 2 or magic loop

1. 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (4)
2. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (6)
3. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (8)
4. Sc in each sc around (8)
5. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (10)
6. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (12)

7-8.  Sc in each sc around (12)

9. *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (9)

FO leaving a long tail for assembly. Flatten the ears, you’ll be sewing through both layers at once. Using the FO ends, sew the ears at about round 14-15 on either side of the head. I sewed the ears on so they laid more flat or relaxed to the head, but you can sew them so they’re perked up as well. Weave in the ends.

Body

Ch 3

1. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, turning your work so you’re working along the bottom of the ch, 2 sc in same sc as first 2 sc (8)
2. 2 sc in each sc around (16)
3. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (24)
4. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (32)
5. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (40)

6-14.  Sc in each sc around (40)

15. Sc in 1st 16 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 3x, sc in last 9 sc (43)

16-24. Sc in each sc around (43)

25.  *sc dec, sc in next 6 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc dec, sc in last 2 sc (37)
26.  Sc in 1st 3 sc, *sc dec, sc in next 5 sc* rep *-* 4x, sc dec, sc in last 4 sc (32)
27.   *sc dec, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc dec (26)
28.  Sc in 1st 3 sc, *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* 4x, sc dec, sc in last sc (21)

STUFF the llama body firmly

29.  Sc in 1st sc, *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (16)
30.  *sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* 5x, sc in last sc (11)

STUFF again if needed

31.  Sc dec around

FO, use end to close up any remaining hole, weave in ends.

Using 3 sewing pins, mark where the increases from round 15 are. Use these as your centering marks.

Stuff the neck up by the head and sew the bottom of the neck to the llama body. I sew the neck on to span across rounds 4-14 of the body. It helps me to pin the neck in place before sewing so I can make adjustments before committing, to prevent a turned or crooked head posture. Before you finish sewing the neck to the body, make sure it’s stuffed all the way, not just up by the head. Weave in the ends.

Legs (tucked  / laying down)

Front Legs (make 2)

Ch 3

1. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, turning your work so you’re working along the bottom of the ch, 2 sc in same sc as first 2 sc (8)
2. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (12)
3. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (16)
4. Sc in 1st 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* 3x, sc in last 3 sc (19)
5. Sc in 1st 15 sc

FO leaving the last 4 sc unworked. Leave a long tail for assembly.

Pin both front “legs” onto the front of the body so that when you set the llama on a level surface, the legs touch the surface and stabilize the body. The oval created by round 1 of the legs should be relatively horizontal. Before you finish sewing the legs in place, make sure to stuff them firmly.  

Back Legs (make 2)

Ch 3

1. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, turning your work so you’re working along the bottom of the ch, 2 sc in same sc as first 2 sc (8)
2. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (12)
3. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (16)
4. Sc in 1st 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* 3x

FO, leaving the last 3 sc unworked. Leave a long tail for assembly.

Pin both back “legs” onto the back of the body (just past round 16) so that when you set the llama on a level surface, the back legs touch the surface. The oval created by round 1 of the legs should be relatively horizontal. Before you finish sewing the legs in place, make sure to stuff them firmly.

Tail

Ch 2 or magic loop

1. 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook / loop (6)
2. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (9)
3. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (12)

4-6.  Sc in each sc around (12)

7. *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (9)

FO, leaving a long tail for assembly.

Flatten the tail and sew through both layers at once. Sew the tail to the middle back end of the llama body. You may also need to tack the middle of the bottom of the tail to the body so it doesn’t lift. Weave in the ends.

Rug

With R1, ch 5

1. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in last ch, turning your work so you’re working along the bottom side of the chain, sc in next 2 ch, sc in same ch as first 2 ch (10)

Change color to R2

1. *3 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 2x (16)
2. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 5x, sc in last sc (21)

Change color back to R1

1. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (28)
2. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (35)

Change color back to R2

1. *ch 1, slp st in next st* rep *-* around (to create a decorative edge)

FO and use the end to tack the rug to the llama’s back. I only tacked it down in four places, you don’t have to sew it down, you just want to keep it in place. Weave in the ends.

Final Touches

Using your scrap bulky yarn, embroider closed eyes and a nose to the head and muzzle of the llama. Weave in the ends.  

More Amigurumi Llama İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials
YarnArt Jeans yarn (light green, dark green and brown)
2.5 mm crochet hook
Safety eyes
Black and pink embroidery floss
Sewing needle, scissors
Fiberfill

Abbreviations
R – row
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
BLO – back loop only
FLO – front loop only
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Front (with bone)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 5 sc in in magic ring [5]
R 2: (inc) repeat 5 times [10]
R 3: (1 inc, 1 sc) repeat 5 times [15]
R 4: (1 inc, 2 sc) repeat 5 times [20]
R 5: (1 inc, 3 sc) repeat 5 times [25]
R 6-7: 25 sc (2 rows)

Change to light green yarn:
R 8: FLO (1 inc, 4 sc) repeat 5 times [30]
R 9: (1 inc, 5 sc) repeat 5 times (35]
R 10: (1 inc, 6 sc) repeat 5 times [40]
R 11: (1 inc, 7 sc) repeat 5 times [45]
R 12: (1 inc, 8 sc) repeat 5 times [50]
Fasten off.

Front (without bone)
With light green yarn:
R 1: 5 sc in in magic ring [5]
R 2: (inc) repeat 5 times [10]
R 3: (1 inc, 1 sc) repeat 5 times [15]
R 4: (1 inc, 2 sc) repeat 5 times [20]
R 5: (1 inc, 3 sc) repeat 5 times [25]

R 6-8: 25 sc (3 rows)
R 9: BLO (1 inc, 4 sc) repeat 5 times [30]
R 10: (1 inc, 5 sc) repeat 5 times [35]
R 11: (1 inc, 6 sc) repeat 5 times [40]
R 12: (1 inc, 7 sc) repeat 5 times [45]
R 13: (1 inc, 8 sc) repeat 5 times [50]
Fasten off.

Your piece won’t be round, it should have 5 sides to it. We turn it so that the end of  crocheting is from the bottom. With light green, slip stitch into the end of upper left side.

Begin to crochet from the wrong side in turning rows.
R 1: 10 sc, 1 turning chain [10]
R 2-4: 10 sc, 1 turning chain [10]
R 5: 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 1 turning chain (8]
R 6: 8 sc, 1 turning chain [8]
R 7: 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 1 turning chain [6]
R 8: 6 sc

Work 65 sc around the whole thing. Sl st to first stitch.
Fasten off.

If you’re using safety eyes, you can attach them between R 4 and R 5.
embroider a mouth with black floss.
Embroider cheeks with pink yarn/floss.

Back
With dark green yarn:
R 1: 5 sc in magic ring [5]
R 2: (inc) repeat 5 times [10]
R 3: (1 inc, 1 sc) repeat 5 times [15]
R 4: (1 inc, 2 sc) repeat 5 times [20]
R 5: (1 inc, 3 sc) repeat 5 times [25]

R 6: (1 inc, 4 sc) repeat 5 times [30]
R 7: (1 ınc, 5 sc) repeat 5 times [35]
R 8: (1 inc, 6 sc) repeat 5 times [40]
R 9: (1 inc, 7 sc) repeat 5 times [45]
R 10: (1 inc, 8 sc) repeat 5 times [50]
Fasten off.

Slip stitch into the end of upper left side like you did for the front.
R 1: 10 sc, 1 turning chain [10]
R 2-4: 10 sc, 1 turning chain [10]
R 5: 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 1 turning chain [8]
R 6: 8 sc, 1 turning chain [8]
R 7: 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 1 turning chain [6]
R 8: 6 sc

Work 65 sc around the whole thing. Repeat this 3 times to create a “bowl” shape. You can make your avocado wider by working more rows around the back piece, or make it slimmer by working less rows around.

Holding the two parts together, sc around with dark green yarn.
Before you close it up, stuff tight with fiberfill.

Arms (make 2)
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2-5: 6 sc (4 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs (make 2)
R 1: 10 sc in magic ring [10]
R 2-6: 10 sc (5 rows)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

More Amigurumi Avocado İdeas