If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials
1,5mm. Crochet hook
Embroidery needle for details and embroidery
Scheepjes Sweet Treat or Bonbon yarn. Scarlet red, white and black.
Polyfill stuffing
Sharp scissors
Pins to pin down parts

Abbreviations
mr = magic ring
ch = chain
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase
dec = single crochet 2 together OR skip stitch (you choose)
slst = slip stitch
FLO = front loop only
BLO = back loop only
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet

Size
Use crochet hook 1,5mm. The doll will be about 8cm(3.2”) depending on how tight/loose you crochet. The abbreviations I used are common US terms. If a line says “sc3, inc, sc5” then it means you’ll have to repeat the action inside the * until end of round and continue the action after the comma. When a line says ‘5sc’, you crochet 5 single crochet in 1 stitch

Arms x2
Black yarn
Rnd 1. Sc6 in mr = 6
Rnd 2. Sc, 2hdc, sc4 = 7
Rnd 3. Sc, dec, sc4 = 6
Switch to red and continue row 4 in BLO
Rnd 4-12. Sc around x9 = 6
Cut yarn and make second arm. Attach to body later

Legs + Body + Head
Black yarn
Rnd 1. Ch5 = 5
Rnd 2. Skip 1st ch from hook, sc3, 3sc – continue on other side of chain – sc2, 3sc = 11
Rnd 3. Sc4, inc, sc5, inc = 13
Rnd 4. Sc around in BLO = 13
Rnd 5. Sc3, dec, dec, sc6 = 11
Rnd 6. Sc3, dec, dec, sc4 = 9
Change to red and continue row 7 in BLO
Rnd 7. Sc4, dec, sc3 = 8
Rnd 8. Sc around = 8
Rnd 9. Sc2, inc, sc, inc = 11
Rnd 10. Sc around = 11
Rnd 11. sc3, inc, sc3 = 13
Rnd 12-13. Sc around x2 = 13
Rnd 14. sc5, inc, sc = 15

Cut yarn. Make second leg.
Cut yarn of 2nd leg and insert hook in 6th stitch of 1st leg with a sc. Ch3.
Insert hook in 13th stitch of second leg with a sc. Place marker.
Rnd 1. Sc around = 36
Stuff feet
Rnd 2-3. Sc around x2 = 36
Rnd 4. Sc7, dec, sc16, dec, sc9 = 34
Rnd 5. Sc around = 34
Change to black and continue row 6 in BLO
Rnd 6. Sc7, dec, sc16, dec, sc7 = 32
Rnd 7. Sc around = 32
Change to red and continue row 8 in BLO

Rnd 8. Sc6, dec, sc15, dec, sc7 = 30
Rnd 9. Sc around = 30
Rnd 10. Sc6, dec, sc13, dec, sc7 = 28
Rnd 11. Sc6, dec, sc12, dec, sc6 = 26
Rnd 12-14. Sc around x3 = 26
Stuff legs and body as you go. We’ll start attaching the arms in the next round. Make sure arms are centered.
Rnd 15. Sc7, sc6 in arm, sc13, sc6 in arm, sc6 = 38
Rnd 16. Sc around = 38
Rnd 17. Dec until you have 6 stitches left. Move marker. 6

• Add embroidery details on front of the body. If needed, use a tiny bit of glue to keep thread in place.
• Continue crocheting the head in black in the upcoming rows.
• Start stuffing after embroidering details.

Rnd 1. inc = 12
Rnd 2. sc, inc = 18
Rnd 3. sc2, inc = 24
Rnd 4. sc3, inc = 30
Rnd 5. sc4, inc = 36
Rnd 6-14. sc around x9 = 36
Rnd 15. sc4, dec = 30
Rnd 16. sc3, dec = 24
Rnd 17. sc2, dec = 18

Embroider triangle, square or circle onto upper part of the face with white yarn.
Mark with pins first.
Triangle – place pin in row 15, place right pin 3 st apart in row 9, place left pin on the left 3 st apart in row 9.
Square – Place left pin in row 13, place a pin with the right pin 5 stitches apart. Go down 6 rows or 7 for a larger square and repeat. You now have a square.
Circle – Cut out a circle from paper and pin down onto face. Glue white thread around the circle onto face and remove paper circle.
Make sure everything is aligned and symmetrical!

Rnd 18. sc, dec = 12
Rnd 19. dec = 6
Cut yarn

Hoodie
Red yarn
Rnd 1. Sc6 in mr = 6
Rnd 2. inc = 12
Rnd 3. sc, inc = 18
Rnd 4. sc2, inc = 24
Rnd 5. sc, inc, sc3, sc2 = 30
Rnd 6. sc4, inc = 36
Rnd 7. Sc2, inc, sc5, sc3 = 42
Rnd 9-14. Sc around x6 = 42
Rnd 15. Sc3, hdc13, sc11, hdc15 = 42
Rnd 16. Sc4, hdc13, sc, slst10, sc2, hdc9, sc3 = 42
Leave long tail for sewing onto head or use glue and tuck in ends.

Assembly
Use pins to keep embroidery symmetrical.
Embroider a black stripe on belly.
Use pins before adding details onto face
Optional
Cut 3 pieces of wire for legs, arms and head. I use 2mm thick aluminium wire. It’s very easy to bend but sturdy. Use pliers to create closed loops for feet and head.

More Amigurumi Squid Game İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

MATERIAL
SKIN COLOR – YARNART JEANS 73
BOOTS – YARNART JEANS 91 / 07
TROUSERS- YARNART BABY COTTON 447
BLOUSE – YARNART BABY COTTON WHITE
HAT – YARNART JEANS 69
SUSPENDERS – YARNART BABY COTTON BROWN
CROCHET NEEDLE 1.75MM
4mmCOPPER WIRE ( 10 cm)
EYES 8MM
SYNTHETIC HAIR
SEWING THREAD
FIBER

ABBREVIATION
MR : MAGIC RING
CH : CHAIN
SC : SINGLE CROCHET
INC : INCREASING
DEC : DECREASING
SL ST : SLIP STITCH
HDC : HALF DOUBLE CROCHET
HDCV : HALF DOUBLE CROCHET INCREASING
DC : DOUBLE CROCHET
DCV : DOUBLE CROCHET INCREASING
STS : STİTCH

HEAD
in the next row we will make 1sc on the chains and
attach the eyes to the space formed
Rnd 1. Mr 6sc
Rnd 2. 6inc = 12sts
Rnd 3.(1sc.1inc)6 = 18sts
Rnd 4. 1sc 1inc (2sc.1inc)5 1sc = 24sts
Rnd 5. (3sc.1inc)6 = 30sts
Rnd 6. 2sc 1inc (4sc.1inc)5 2sc = 36sts
Rnd 7. (5sc.1inc)6 = 42sts
Rnd 8. 3sc 1inc (6sc.1inc)5 3sc = 48sts
Rnd 9. (7sc.1inc)6 = 54sts
Rnd 10-17. 54sc
Rnd 18. 21sc 1ch (1sc skip) 10sc 1ch (1sc skip) 21sc = 52sts
Rnd 19-21. 54sts Rnd 22. (7sc.1dec)6 = 48sts
Rnd 23. (2sc.1dec)12 = 36sts
Rnd 24. 2sc 1dec (4sc.1dec)5 2sc = 30sts
Rnd 25. (3sc.1dec)6 = 24sts
Rnd 26. 1sc 1dec (2sc.1dec)5 1sc = 18sts
Rnd 27. (1sc.1dec)*6 = 12sts cut the rope
when the 21st row is finished , we will shape the face
the nose will be embroidered with 2sc between the 19th and
20th rows.

ARM
we start with skin color
Rnd 1. Mr 4sc
Rnd 2. 4inc = 8sts
Rnd 3-25. 8sc

HAT
Rnd 1. Mr 12dc
Rnd 2. 12dcv = 24dc
Rnd 3. (1dc.1dcv)12 = 36dc
Rnd 4. (2dc.1dcv)12 = 48dc
Rnd 5-11. 48dc
Rnd 12. 48sc cut the rope

RIGHT LEG
7 ch – we start with skin color –
Rnd 1. 1inc 4sc -4x to last chain- 4sc 1inc = 16sts
Rnd 2. 2inc 4sc 4inc 4sc 2inc = 24sts
Rnd 3. BLO 24sc
Rnd 4. 8sc 4dec 8sc = 20sts
Rnd 5. 6sc 4dec 6sc = 16sts
Rnd 6. 4sc 4dec 4sc = 12sts
Rnd 7. 5sc 1dec 5sc = 11sts
Rnd 8-11. 11sc
Rnd 12. 1inc 10sc = 12sts
Rnd 13-14. 12sc
Rnd 15. 1sc 1inc 10sc = 13sc
Rnd 16-17. 13sc
Rnd 18. 2sc 1inc 10inc = 14sts
Rnd 19-20. 14sc
Rnd 21. 3sc 1inc 10sc = 15sts
Rnd 22-25. 15sc
Rnd 26. 2sc 1dec 1sc 1dec 8sc = 13sts
Rnd 27. 13sc
Rnd 28. 3sc 1dec 8sc = 12sts
Rnd 29. 12sc
Rnd 30. 3sc 1inc 8sc = 13sts
Rnd 31. 13sc
Rnd 32. 3sc 1inc 1sc 1inc 7sc = 15sts
Rnd 33-34. 15sc
Rnd 35. 6sc 1inc 8sc = 16sts
Rnd 36-37. 16sc
Rnd 38. 7sc 1inc 8sc = 17sts
Rnd 39-40. 17sc
Rnd 41. 8sc 1inx 8sc = 18sts
Rnd 42-45. 18sc
Rnd 46. 14sc 1sl st cut the rope

LEFT LEG
7 ch – we start with skin color –
Rnd 1. 1inc 4sc -4sc to last chain- 4sc 1inc = 16sts
Rnd 2. 2inc 4sc 4inc 4sc 2inc = 24sts
Rnd 3. BLO 24sc
Rnd 4. 8sc 4dec 8sc = 20sts
Rnd 5. 6sc 4dec 6sc = 16sts
Rnd 6. 4sc 4dec 4sc = 12sts
Rnd 7. 5sc 1dec 5sc = 11sts
Rnd 8-11. 11sc
Rnd 12. 1sc 1inc 9sc = 12sts
Rnd 13-14. 12sc
Rnd 15. 2sc 1inc 9sc = 13sts
Rnd 16-17. 13sc
Rnd 18. 3sc 1inc 9sc = 14sts
Rnd 19-20. 14sc
Rnd 21. 4sc 1inc 9sc = 15sts
Rnd 22-25. 15sc
Rnd 26. 3sc 1dec 1sc 1dec 7sc = 13sts
Rnd 27. 13sc
Rnd 28. 4sc 1dec 7sc = 12sts
Rnd 29. 12sc
Rnd 30. 4sc 1inc 7sc = 13sts
Rnd 31. 13sc
Rnd 32. 4sc 1inc 1sc 1inc 6sc = 15sts
Rnd 33-34. 15sc
Rnd 35. 7sc 1inc 7sc = 16sts
Rnd 36-37. 16sc
Rnd 38. 8sc 1inc 7sc = 17sts
Rnd 39-40. 17sc
Rnd 41. 9sc 1inc 7sc = 18sts
Rnd 42-46. 18sc

Rnd 47. 6sc 1ch – we start with sl st on the right leg -18sc – 1sc to chain –
12sc = 37sts
Rnd 48. 6sc – 1sc to chain – 18sc 2inc 11sc = 40sts
Rnd 49-50. 40sc
Rnd 51. 19sc 1dec 12sc 1dec 5sc = 38sts
Rnd 52. 38sc
Rnd 53. 19sc 1dec 10sc 1dec 5sc = 36sts
Rnd 54. 19sc 1dec 8sc 1dec 5sc = 34sts
Rnd 55. 19sc 1dec 6sc 1dec 5sc = 32sts
Rnd 56. 19sc 1dec 4sc 1dec 5sc = 30sts
Rnd 57-69. 30sc
Rnd 70. – We combine with 2sc left arm – 13sc – We combine with 2sc
right arm – 13sc = 30sts
Rnd 71-72. 38sc
Rnd 73. 3dec 13sc 3dec 11sc 1dec = 31sts
Rnd 74. 3dec 1sc 1dec 1sc 1dec 1sc 4dec 8sc 1dec = 21sts
Rnd 75. 1dec 7sc 2dec 8sc = 18sts
Rnd 76. (1sc.1dec)*6 = 12sts
Rnd 77-79. 12sc cut the rope long

BOOTS
7 ch – yarnart jeans 07 –
Rnd 1. 1inc 4sc -5sc to the same place- 4sc 1inc = 17sts
Rnd 2. 2inc 4sc 5hdcv 4sc 2inc = 26sts
we change color
Rnd 3. BLO 9sc 8hdc 9sc = 26sts
Rnd 4. 9sc 8hdc 9sc = 26sts
Rnd 5. 9sc 4dec 9sc = 22sts
Rnd 6. 9sc 2dec 9sc = 20sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 7. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 8. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 9. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 10. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 11. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 12. 20sl st

BLOUSE
26 CH
Rnd 1. (3dc.1dcv)6 = 30dc 2ch turn back
Rnd 2. (4dc.1dcv)6 = 36dc 2ch turn back
Rnd 3. (5dc.1dcv)6 = 42dc Combine both sides with 1 sl st
Rnd 4. (6sc.1inc)6 = 48sts
Rnd 5. 7sc – skip 10 sc – 14sc – skip 10 sc – 7sc = 28sts
Rnd 6-7. 28sc cut the rope

TROUSER (2 peces )
don’t cut the strings
17 ch – we start by leaving the thread long to sew the sides –
Rnd 1. 16sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 2. 16sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 3. 16sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 4. 1sc 1inc 12sc 1inc 1sc = 18sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 5.18sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 6.18sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 7.18sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 8. 1sc 1inc 14sc 1inc 1sc = 20sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 9. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 10. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 11. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 12. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 13. 1sc 1inc 16sc 1inc 1sc = 22sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 14. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 15. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 16. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 17. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 18. 1sc 1inc 18sc 1inc 1sc = 24sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 19. 24sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 20. 24sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 21. 24sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 22. 24sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 23. 1sc 1inc 20sc 1inc 1sc = 26sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 24. 26sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 25. 26sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 26. 26sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 27. 26sc 1ch turn back

• As in the image, put the two pieces on top of each other and knit
  the 2 loops in the middle.
• We combine with 2 sc
• we fold side it. We continue to knit the front part of the trousers
  first and then the back part.

TROUSER FRONT
Rnd 28. 12sc from right leg 12sc from left leg = 24sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 29. 24sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 30. 24sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 31. 1sc 1dec 18sc 1dec 1sc = 22sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 32. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 33. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 34. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 35. 1sc 1dec 16sc 1dec 1sc = 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 36. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 37. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 38. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 39. 1dec 16sc 1dec = 18sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 40. 18sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 41. 1dec 14sc 1dec = 16sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 42. 16sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 43. 1dec 12sc 1dec = 14sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 44. 14sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 45. 1dec 10sc 1dec = 12sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 46. 12sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 47. 1dec 8sc 1dec = 10sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 48. 10sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 49. 1dec 6sc 1dec = 8sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 50. 8sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 51. 1sc 1ch -skip 1sc- 4sc 1ch -skip 1sc- 1sc = 8sts cut the rope

TROUSER BACK
Rnd 28. 12sc from left leg 12sc from right leg = 24sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 29. 24sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 30. 24sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 31. 1sc 1dec 18sc 1dec 1sc = 22sts 1ch turn back
Rnd 32. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 33. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 34. 22sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 35. 1sc 1dec 16sc 1dec 1sc = 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 36. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 37. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 38. 20sc 1ch turn back
Rnd 39. 1dec 16sc 1dec = 18sts cut the rope

• 110 ch for suspenders

More Amigurumi Doll İdeas

Materials
To make the owls we have used Rainbow Cotton 8/4 and 8/8 threads. For those who are in Spain, in some European countries and Brazil, they can get them in their online stores  and for those who do not have access to them, they can look for a thread with similar characteristics.

8/4 RAINBOW COTTON YARN DETAILS
The smallest owls are made with 8/4 yarn, if you want to make them with the same colors their references are: White (001) – Nude (003) – Mint (024) – Pastel Mint (025 ) – Pastel Purple (041) – Pastel Pink (042) – Baby Purple (043) – Ocher Yellow (082)
– Composition: 100% Cotton
– Weight: 50gr
– Length: 170m
– Recommended crochet hook: 2.5mm to 3.5mm
– Sample: 10 x 10 cm = 27 stitches x 38 rows
– Yarn type: Super Fine (1mm measured with cm.)

8/8 RAINBOW COTTON YARN DETAILS
The largest owl is made with 8/4 yarn and 8/8 yarn, if you want to do it with the same colors, the 8/8 references are:White (001) – Natural White (002) – Baby Blue (032)
– Composition: 100% Cotton
– Weight: 50gr
– Length: 75m
– Recommended crochet hook: 3.5mm to 4mm
– Sample: 10 x 10 cm = 20 stitches x 24 laps
– Type of yarn: Light (2mm measured with cm.)

More materials
-Synthetic Cotton (to fill)
-Safety eyes x2 of 8mm (for small owl)
-Safety eyes x2 of 12mm (for large owl)

Tools
-Crochet No. 2.5mm  (for small owl)
-Crochet No. 3.5mm  (for large owl)
-Wool needle (to sew the parts and embroider)
-Scissors – Ruler / Centimeter

BODY / HEAD
*Large Owl: Work in a spiral, with the 3.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/8 thread
*Small Owl: Work in a spiral, with the 2.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/4 thread
Row 1.- Slip Ring (6)
Row 2.- 1inc rep x6 (12)
Row 3.- 1sc, 1inc rep x6 (18)
Row 4.- 2sc, 1inc rep x6 (24)
Row 5.- 3sc, 1inc rep x6 (30)
Row 6.- 4sc, 1inc rep x6 (36)
Row 7.- 5sc, 1inc rep x6 (42)
Row 8.- 6sc, 1inc rep x6 (48)
Rows 9 / 15. – 1sc in each sc (48)
Row 16.- 6sc, 1dc rep x6 (42)
Rows 17 / 19.- 1sc in each sc (42)
Row 20.- 5sc, 1dc rep x6 (36)
Row 21.- 1sc in each sc ( 36)
Row 22.- 4sc, 1dc rep x6 (30)
Row 23.- 1sc in each sc (30)
Row 24.- 3sc, 1dc rep x6 (24)
Rows 25 / 28.- 1sc in each sc (24)
Go filling in as you weave. Finish off leaving a long tail.

WINGS x2 (same points)
*Large owl: Work in a spiral, with a 3.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/8 threads
*Small owl: Work in a spiral, with a 2.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/4 threads
The wings will be made combining colors of your choice, you can make them combining 2 or 3 colors, in the instructions we will make the combination of 2 colors, A (it will be the lighter color) and B (it will be the stronger color), if you want to combine 3 you will only have to replace color B of rows 4 and 5 for color C (even stronger than color B).
Between [ ] you will see the color differentiated by letters (color…) and followed by the mp that you will do with that color.
Row 1.- (color B) Slip Hoop
Row 2.- [ (color A) 1inc rep x4 ] , (color B) 1inc rep x2
Row 3.- [ (color A) 1sc, 1inc rep x4 ] , (color B) 1sc, 1inc rep x2
Row 4.- [ (color A) *2sc, 1inc * rep x4 ] , (color B) 2sc, 1inc rep x2
Row 5.- [ (color A) 3sc, 1inc rep x4 ] , (color B) 3sc, 1inc rep x2 Bind off leaving a long tail of each color.

EYES x2 (same points)
*Large owl: Knit in a spiral, with a 3.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/8 yarn
*Small owl: Knit in a spiral, with a 2.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/4 yarn
The eyes will also be made with two colors of your choice … A (will be the lighter color) and B (will be the stronger color)…
Row 1.- (color A) Slip Hoop
Row 2.- (color A) 1inc rep x6
Row 3.- (color A) 1sc, 1inc rep x6
Row 4.- (color B) 2sc, 1inc rep x6 Bind off leaving a long tail.

CHEEKS x2 (different points )…
*Large Owl: Knit in a circle with a 2.5mm crochet hook and 8/4 Rainbow Cotton yarn.
Row 1.- Slip Hoop (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail.
*Little Owl: Knit in a circle with a 2.5mm crochet hook and 8/4 Rainbow Cotton yarn.
Row 1.- Slip Hoop (4)
Finish off leaving a long tail.

PEAK (various points)
*Large Owl: Work in a spiral, with 2.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/4 yarn
Row 1.- Slip Ring (4)
Row 2.- *1sc, 1inc* rep x2 (6)
Rows 3 / 5.- 1sc in each sc (6)
Bind off leaving a long tail.
*Little Owl: Work in a spiral, with a 2.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/4 yarn
Row 1.- Slip Hoop (4)
Rows 2 / 3.- 1sc in each sc (4)
Bind off leaving a long tail.

LEGS (different points)…
*Large owl: Knit in a row, with 2.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/4
yarn Start with 12ch + 1ch to go up (13)
Row 1.- 1sc in each ch (12)
Bind off leaving a long tail.
*Little Owl: Knit in a row, with 2.5mm crochet hook and Rainbow Cotton 8/4
yarn Start with 8ch + 1ch to go up (9)
Row 1.- 1sc in each ch (8)
Bind off leaving a long tail.

Assembly
When you sew all the parts and edges, we recommend that you always take the threads inside and towards the upper hole that will remain unclosed until the assembly is finished, that way you can tie the threads together and all the parts will be very secure.
1.- Place the safety eyes (without the closure yet) on the knitted eyes. The 12mm ones are for the big owl and the 8mm ones are for the little owl. Put the ends of the knitted eyes outwards and place the safety eyes in the internal angles and opposite to the ends (guide with the images).
2.- Sew the cheeks on the ends of the knitted eyes.
3.-Take the body and place it facing you with the finial to the right. With the help of the safety eyes or the hook, make two holes between rows 8 and 9 counting from the top and leaving 6sc of distance between them (guide with the images). Put the eyes in the holes and put the safety locks inside the body. 4.- Sew the contour of the knitted eyes all around. 5.- Sew the beak between the eyes, between Rnds. 8 and 10 of the body, counting from the top. 6.- Sew the wings to the sides of the body, between Rnds.12 and 18, counting from the top. Just sew the top half of the wing, leave the bottom half unstitched for movement. 7.-He embroiders the Vs that he carries forward with two 8/4 threads of different colors together. Make 3 Vs between rows 18 and 19, counting from the top, and finish with 2 Vs between rows 21 and 22, also counting from the top (refer to the pictures for guidance).
8.- Sew the legs at the base of the body, shape a semicircle and sew them between Rnds.1 and 4, counting from the center and forward (guide with the images).
9.- Sew the upper part of the body/head, leaving the threads of all the seams hidden inside.
10.- You have finished your adorable owl… good job!

More Amigurumi Owl İdeas

Materials
Yarn Himalaya Dolphin Baby pink 319 , grey 320
YarnArt Jeans black 28 , pink 42 , 36 , white 01, yellow 88.
Hook 4.0 and 2.1
Stuffing for toys ( sintepon , hollow fiber)
Scissors , needle with the wide eye for toy assembly

Abbreviations
MR- magic/amigurumi ring
sc – single crochet (the number indicated the number of sc)
hdc – half double crochet
ch – chain
inc – increase =2 sts into one st
dec – decrease =2 sts together
sl st – slip stitch
t – number of repeats

Head-Body
1 rnd: work in pink
6 sc into MR = 6 sc
2 rnd: (inc)* 6t = 12 sc
3 rnd: (inc, 1 sc)* 6t = 18 sc
4 rnd: 1 sc,inc, (2 sc,inc)* 5t, 1 sc = 24 sc
5 rnd: (3 sc,inc)* 6t = 30 sc
6 rnd: 2 sc,inc, (4 sc,inc)* 5t, 2 sc = 36 sc
7 rnd: (5 sc,inc)* 6t = 42 sc
8 rnd: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)* 5t, 3 sc = 48 sc
9 rnd: (7 sc,inc)* 6t = 54 sc
10-25 rnds: 54 sc
When using safety eyes, set them in round 20 with the distance of 8 sc between them
26 rnd: (7 sc, dec) 6t = 48 sc
27 rnd: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)* 5t, 3 sc = 42 sc
28 rnd: (5 sc,dec)* 6t = 36 sc
29 rnd: 2 sc,dec, (4 sc,dec)* 5t, 2 sc = 30 sc
30 rnd: (3 sc,dec)* 6t = 24 sc
31 rnd: 1 sc,dec, (2 sc,dec)* 5t, 1 sc = 18 sc
32 rnd: (dec, 1 sc)* 6t = 12 sc
33 rnd: (dec)* 6t = 6 sc, stitch up the hole.

Arms-Legs- make 4
1 rnd: work in grey
6 sc into MR = 6 sc
2 rnd: work in pink (1 sc, inc)3t = 9 sc
3 rnd: (2 sc, inc)3t = 12 sc, leave a yarn tail for sewing.

Cheeks- make 2
1 rnd: work in raspberry red
6 sc into MR = 6 sc
2 rnd: (inc)* 6t = 12 sc, leave a yarn tail for sewing.

Ears- make 2
1 row: chain 9 in pink, begin working from the 2nd st from hook.
Work 8 sc across the chain. Turn your work in the end of each row.
Chain 1 in the beginning of each row.
2 row: 6 sc, dec = 7 sc
3 row: 5 sc, dec = 6 sc
4 row: 4 sc, dec = 5 sc
5 row: 3 sc, dec = 4 sc
6 row: 2 sc, dec = 3 sc
7 row: 1 sc, dec = 2 sc
8 row: dec, turn work and crochet round the piece. Shape the ear.

Snout
1 rnd: chain 5 in pink, begin working from the 2nd st from hook.
crochet round the chain as follows:
3 sc into 1 st, 2 sc, turn work and go on working
3 sc into 1 st, 2 sc = 10 sc
2 rnd: 3 inc, (1 sc, hdc)* into 1 st, (1 sc, hdc)* into 1 st,
3 inc, 2 sc = 18 sc
3 rnd: (1 sc, inc)3t, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)3t, 3 sc = 24 sc + 3 sc + 2 sl st,
finish off.
4 rnd: slip stitch around in raspberry red – 24 sl st, fasten off, cut yarn and weave
in. Sew the snout on the toy wrong side out.

Glasses
Bridge: chain 5 in yellow, begin working from the 2nd st from hook. Work 4 sc, leave a
yarn tail for sewing.
Eyes:
1 rnd: work in black into MR as follows:
3 ch, 4 tr, 4 dc, 1 tr, ch, 1 tr, 4dc, 4 tr, 3 ch = 18 sts
Pull to close the ring.
2 rnd: chain up, 2 sc, (inc, 1 sc)3t, 3 sc, ch, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc)3t, 3 sc + sl st = 28 sc
3 rnd: single crochet round the piece in yellow.
I use light color yarn by way of demonstration to show all the stitches.

Wings – make 2
crochet 3 parts for 1 wing:
part 1:
1 rnd: work in white
6 sc into MR = 6 sc
2 rnd: (1 sc, inc)3t = 9 sc 3-6 rnds: 9 sc, cut yarn. part 2: 1 rnd: work in white 6 sc into MR = 6 sc 2 rnd: (1 sc, inc)3t = 9 sc
3-4 rnds: 9 sc, cut yarn.
part 3:
1 rnd: work in white
6 sc into MR = 6 sc
2 rnd: (1 sc, inc)3t = 9 sc 3 rnd: 9 sc, do not cut yarn.

1 rnd: Continue crocheting the wing. To do this, we need to connect all the parts together as shown in the photos. Work 5 sc across the second part + join part 3 and work 4 sc across it, turn work and go on across this part – 5 sc + 4 sc across part 2 and 9 sc across part 1. Thus, having worked 27 sc you connected all the parts into one piece. Continue working in the spiral.
2 rnd: 27 sc
3 rnd: (dec, 7 sc)3t = 24 sc
4 rnd: (dec, 2 sc)*6t = 18 sc
5 rnd: 18 sc
6 rnd: dec, 1 sc)6t = 12 sc
7 rnd: 12 sc
8 rnd: (dec, 1 sc)3t = 9 sc
9 rnd: fold in half and work through both halves: 4 sc, leave a yarn tail for sewing.

Assembly and decoration:
– sew on the snout between rounds 17 – 20 of the body
– sew on the glasses between rounds 19 – 23 (first eyes, and then the
bridge):
– embroider nostrils and flares in the glasses
– sew on the ears between rounds 23 – 30:
– sew on the cheeks between rounds 16 – 17:
– sew on the arms between rounds 12 – 14 of the body, and the legs – at
the level of rounds 3-5:
– sew on the wings between rounds 18 – 20
– cinch slightly in the inner glasses corners
– embroider a mouth

More Amigurumi Pig İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials
• 2.5 mm hook
• Cotton yarn
(I used Alize cotton baby “soft”, 50% cotton:

• blue (335), white (55), burgundy (57),
• green (274)
  YarnArt “Jeans”, 50% cotton:
• brown (71), dark brown (70)
  • White embroider thread
  • Safety eyes 8.00 mm
  • Stuffing
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch marker

Abbreviations
• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• inc – increase
• dec – decrease
• slst – slip stitch
• hdc – half double crochet
• inc hdc – 2 hdc in the same stitch
• FLO – use only front loops
• BLO – use only back loops

HEAD
Use the brown yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]
Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]

Rnd 7-12: sc around [36], 6 rounds
Rnd 13: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]
Rnd 14: sc around [42]
Rnd 15: (6 sc, inc) x6, [48]

Rnd 16: sc around [48]
Rnd 17: (inc, 7 sc) x6 [54]
Attach the safety eyes between rounds 14
and 15 with 8 sts between.
Rnd 18-25: sc around, [54], 8 rounds

Start to stuff the head.
• Tip: I used invisible decreases for next
rounds.
Rnd 26: (dec, 7 sc) x6 [48]
Rnd 27: (dec, 6 sc) x6 [42]
Rnd 28: (dec, 5 sc) x6 [36]
Rnd 29: (dec, 4 sc) x6 [30]
Rnd 30: (dec, 3 sc) x6 [24]
Rnd 31: (dec, 2 sc) x6 [18]
Rnd 32: (dec, sc) x6 [12]
Stuff the head firmly.
Cut the yarn, leave a tail for fasten off.
How to close the end of the round: with a darning needle, insert the remaining yarn through all the front loops of the stitches on the last round. Pull all together at once and sew to hide the yarn inside the part you are working on.

EARS (make 2)
Use the brown yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]
Rnd 4: sc around [12]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]
Rnd 6-9: sc around [15], 4 rounds
Don’t stuff the ears, cut the yarn, leaving a
tail for sewing

Fold the ear in half and sew two sides together

HORNS (make 2)
Use the dark brown yarn.
First and second piece:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 3: sc around [9]
Cut the yarn, leave a tail.
Third piece:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 3-4: sc around [9], 2 rounds
Don’t cut the yarn of third piece.
We are going to connect the first piece with third. Insert your hook in first stitch of first piece (after finished the round 3) and make a sc. it will be the first stitch of round 5 and new beginning. Put your stitch marker here.

Rnd 5: two pieces together: 9 sc around first
piece, 9 sc around third piece, [18]
Close the opening between two pieces with remaining tail of first piece.
Rnd 6: (dec, 4 sc) x3 [15]
Rnd 7: (dec, 3 sc) x3 [12]
Rnd 8: (dec, 2 sc) x3, [9]
Stuff the horn lightly.

Rnd 9: 2 sc, insert the hook in second piece and pull up the yarn. Crochet 9 sc around second piece and 7 sc around the horn [18]
Don’t move the stitch marker.
Close the opening between second piece and horn with remaining tail of second piece.

Rnd 10: (dec, 4 sc) x3 [15]
Rnd 11: (dec, 3 sc) x3 [12]
Rnd 12: sc around [12]
Rnd 13: (dec, 2 sc) x3 [9]
Rnd 14: sc around [9]
Stuff the horns lightly
Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing.

BODY
Use the blue yarn.
Ch 9. Stitches are worked around both sides
of the foundation chain.
*if you have some questions how to crochet an oval,
Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, 6 sc, 3 sc in last st.
Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, 7 sc, [18]

Rnd 2: 2 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, inc [24]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x2, 6 sc, (sc, inc) x3, 7 sc, inc [30]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x2, 6 sc, (2 sc, inc) x3, 8 sc, inc [36]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x2, 6 sc, (3 sc, inc) x3, 9 sc, inc [42]
Rnd 6: 3 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x2, 6 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x3, 6 sc, inc, sc [48]
Rnd 7: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x2, 6 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x3, 6 sc, inc, sc, [54]

Rnd 8-13: sc around [54], 6 rounds
Change the yarn to green.
How to change the color of yarn:
With the two loops from the previous yarn on the hook, wrap the new yarn around the hook, then pull the new yarn through the two loops of the stitch

Make sure that the first stitch of round 14 is green.
Rnd 14: (dec, 7 sc) x6 [48]
Rnd 15-16: sc around [48], 2 rounds
Change the yarn to white.
Rnd 17: sc around [48]
Change the yarn to green.
Rnd 18: (dec, 6 sc) x6, [42]

Rnd 19-20: sc around [42], 2 rounds
Change the yarn to white.
Rnd 21: sc around [42]
Change the yarn to green.
Rnd 22: (dec, 5 sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 23-24: sc around, [36], 2 rounds
Change the yarn to white.
Rnd 25: (dec, 4 sc) x6 [30]
Change the yarn to green.
Rnd 26-28: sc around [30], 3 rounds
Rnd 29: (dec, 3 sc) x6 [24]
Stuff the body firmly.
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

HANDS (make 2)
Use the brown yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 3: sc around [9]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]
Rnd 5: sc around [12]
Rnd 6: 5 sc, bobble stitch (it should be a thumb), 6 sc [12]
How to make a thumb:
• Yarn over.
• Insert your hook in the next st and pull up a loop.
• Yarn over again and pull through 2 loops.
This will leave one loop of the dc still on your hook (2 loops on hook)

• yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook).
• yarn over… repeat it 3 times.
• ….and pull through all 4 loops on your hook

Rnd 7: sc around [12]
Rnd 8: (dec, 2 sc) x3 [9]
Stuff the hand firmly.
Change the yarn to green.
Rnd 9: FLO: (inc) x9 [18]
Rnd 10-14: sc around [18], 5 rounds
Change the yarn to white.
Rnd 15: (dec, 4 sc) x3 [15]
Change the yarn to green.
Rnd 16-18: sc around [15], 3 rounds
Change the yarn to white.
Rnd 19: sc around [15]
Change the yarn to green.
Rnd 20: (dec, 3 sc) x3 [12]

Rnd 21-22: sc around [12], 2 rounds
Change the yarn to white.
Rnd 23: sc around [12]
Change the yarn to green.
Rnd 24-27: sc around [12], 4 rounds
Crochet 4 sc more, after round 27 to bring
the tail of yarn in the corner.
Cut the yarn, leave a tail for sewing.
Stuff the hand lightly.

SHOES and LEGS (make 2)
Use the blue yarn.
Ch 9. Stitches are worked around both sides
of the foundation chain.
Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook:
inc in this st, 6 sc, 3 sc in last st.
Continue on the other side of the
foundation chain: 7 sc, slip stitch in the first
st, ch 1, [18]

Rnd 2: 2 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, inc, slst in first st, ch 1 [24]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x2, 6 sc, (sc, inc) x3, 7 sc, inc, slst in first st, ch 1 [30]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x2, 6 sc, (2 sc, inc) x3, 8 sc, inc, slst in first st, ch 1, [36]

Change the yarn to burgundy.
•Tip: change the yarn by doing last stitch of round 4. The slip stitch and starting change will be bungundy color.
Rnd 5: BLO: sc in next 36 st, slst in first st, ch 1, [36]

Rnd 6-9: sc in next 36 st, slst in first st, ch 1, [36], 4 rounds
Rnd 10: 14 sc, 6 dec, 10 sc, slst in first st, ch 1 [30]
Rnd 11: 12 sc, 5 dec, 8 sc, slst in first st, ch 1 [25]
Rnd 12: 10 sc, 4 dec, 7 sc, (fig 35, 36) [21]
Don’t make a slip stitch now, we are going to attach the blue yarn and begin to crochet the leg. Leave the burgundy yarn, don’t cut it. We will come back to shoe later, after to finish the leg.
Stuff the shoe firmly

Attach the blue yarn to first back loop of round 12. Make a starting chain, in this loop crochet a sc and it will be the first stitch of the leg. Put your stitch marker here.
Then all stitches of the leg are crocheted around, don’t join at the end of each round.

Rnd 13: BLO: 9 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc, [18]
Rnd 14: (sc, dec) x6 [12]
Rnd 15-41: sc around, [12], 27 rounds

Stuff the leg lightly.
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Go back to our shoe. Make a slip stitch in the first front loop of round 12, ch 1.
Rnd 13: FLO: sc in next 21 loops, slst in first st, ch 1 [21]
Rnd 14: sc in next 21 st, [21]
Fasten off.

Lay the shoe so that the tip is at the top and away from your face. Then, insert your hook in last front loop of round 5, pick up the white yarn. Make a slst in each front loop around the shoe. Fasten off.
• Tip: make a slst loosely

OVERALLS
Use the burgundy yarn.
Ch 20. Make a slst in first chain, ch 1, [20]

Rnd 1: (hdc, inc hdc) x10, slst in first st, ch 1 [30]
Rnd 2: hdc in next 30 st , slst in first st, ch 1 [30]
Rnd 3: (hdc in next 14 st, inc hdc) x2, slst in first st, ch 1 [32]
Rnd 4: hdc in next 32 st, slst in first st, [32]

Fasten off the first piece and don’t cut the yarn of the second piece. We are going to connect two pieces together.
Insert your hook into the next stitch of the first piece (after fasted off) and complete a slst to connect the pieces. Make
the starting chain and hdc in this stitch. This will mark the first stitch of the shorts and is now your new starting point.
Place your stitch marker here.

Rnd 5: with the two pieces together: 32 hdc around the first piece, 32 hdc around the second piece, slst in first st, ch 1, [64]
Close the gap between two pieces using the remaining tail of the first.

Rnd 6-11: hdc in next 64 st, slst in first st, ch 1, [64], 6 rounds
Rnd 12: (hdc2tog, hdc in next 6 st) x8, slst in first st, ch 1 [56]
*hdc2tog =half double crochet decreases
(crochet together 2 stitches with a half
double crochet stitch to lose 1 stitch).
How to make decrease with hdc stitch
(hdc2tog):
-Yarn over hook.
-Insert hook into stitch.
-Yarn over hook and pull through. There
should be three loops on your hook.
-Yarn over hook.

• Insert your hook into the next stitch.
  -Yarn over and pull through. There should
  be five loops on your hook.
  -Yarn over and pull through all five loops.

Rnd 13: hdc in next 56 st, slst in first st, ch 1 [56]
Rnd 14: (hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 st) x8, slst in first st, ch 1 [48]
Rnd 15: hdc in next 48 st [48]

Rnd 16: (hdc2tog, hdc in next 4 st) x8, slst in first st, ch 1 [40]
Rnd 17: hdc in next 40 st, slst in first st, [40]

Don’t cut the yarn, we are going to make the suspenders.
Ch 25, skip 5 chains (loop for button), yarn over and insert your hook in
next chain, hdc in next 20 chain st

Make a slst in next 5 st, then ch 25. Skip 5 chains (leave it for button), insert your hook in next chain, hdc in next 20 chain st
Fasten off.

Skip 11 stitches from the second suspender,
insert your hook in 12th stitch and make starting chain, hdc in this stitch.
Follow the pattern below:
Row 1: hdc in next 11 st, ch 1, turn, [11]
Row 2-3: hdc in next 11 st, ch 1, turn, (59, 60) [11]
Fasten off

Sew the two small buttons onto the front side of the overalls, matching up the bottom hole created.
Create the two white bottons (6 sc in magic ring) and sew them on the frant side of the overalls

Assembling:
Place the horns between rounds 22 and 25 with 6 sts in (fig 62) and sew them to the head
Place the ears below the horns and sew them between rounds 20 and 24
Embroider two points like the points of the nose on the front side of the head
Use the black thread, embroider one eyelash for both eyes
Use the brown yarn, embroider few freckles on the head

Sew the head to the body by going across each stitch of the body and the head. Do it between rounds 13 and 20 of the head.
Sew the arms to the body between rounds 28 and 29

Insert the legs into the shorts (fig 73) and sew them to the body on the front side
between round 1 and 2.
• Tip: make sure that the feet are facing in the right deriction befoure sewing
Use the blue yarn, make a lace of 60 chains and wrap it around the neck of reindeer.

More Amigurumi Reindeer İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials
2.5 mm – 1/B crochet hook
Tapestry or large sewing needle
Stitch marker (I use yarn)
Fiberfill stuffing
6 mm safety eyes
Black thread
Light pink yarn – small amount

Yarns
Schachenmayr Catania
00436 Ivory – 25 gr
00289 Khaki – 14 gr
00396 Marsala – 5 gr
00249 Gold – 30 gr
0417 Pine – 2 gr
00426 Fuchs – 15 gr

Finished size and gauge
Esther is approximately 22 cm / 8.5 inches tall. Exact gauge is not necessary for this project. Her measurements will change depending on the hook and yarn you use. It’s important to crochet tight, to avoid the stuffing showing up after filling.

Abbreviations
st = stitch
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only
rep = repeat
cont = continue
inc = increase
dec = decrease

Invisible decrease: A method of decreasing. Insert hook into the front loop of the next two stitches and pull a loop up through both. Yarn over and pull through last two loops left on the hook.

Alice is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise instructed.

Head
Start with the color of the body.
Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Rnd 2. inc each st (12)
Rnd 3. {sc, inc} 6 times (18)
Rnd 4. {sc into 2, inc} 6 times (24)
Rnd 5. {sc into 3, inc} 6 times (30)

Rnd 6. {sc into 4, inc} 6 times (36)
Rnd 7. {sc into 5, inc} 6 times (42)
Rnd 8. {sc into 6, inc} 6 times (48)
Rnd 9. {sc into 7, inc} 6 times (54)
Rnd 10-21. sc into each (54)
Place the safety eyes between rnds
18 & 19, with the distance of 11 stitches between them.

Rnd 22. {sc into 7, dec} 6 times (48)
Rnd 23. {sc into 6, dec} 6 times (42)
Rnd 24. {sc into 5, dec} 6 times (36)
Rnd 25. {sc into 4, dec} 6 times (30)
Rnd 26. {sc into 3, dec} 6 times (24)
Start to stuff the head.

Rnd 27. {sc into 2, dec} 6 times (18)
Rnd 28. {sc, dec} 6 times (12)
Continue to stuff the head firmly.
Rnd 29. sc into each FLO (12)
Change to the green yarn.

Body
Rnd 1. {sc, inc} 6 times (18)
Rnd 2. {sc into 2, inc} 6 times (24)
Rnd 3. sc into each (24)
Rnd 4. {sc into 3, inc} 6 times (30)
Rnd 5-6. sc into each (30)
Change to the color of the body.

Rnd 7. sc into each BLO (30)
Rnd 8. {sc into 4, inc} 6 times (36)
Rnd 9-10. sc into each (36)
Change to the purple yarn.
Rnd 11-13. sc into each (36)
Rnd 14. {sc into 4, dec} 6 times (30)
Rnd 15-16. sc into each (30) Fasten
off, and weave the end. Stuff the
neck and body continuously.

Legs
To make the legs divide the work:
11-11 stitches for the legs, and 4-4
stitches between them both at the
front and the back of the doll. Mark
the stitches with yarn or stitch
marker. Make sure the legs line up
nicely with the eyes. With the color
of the body join with a sl st at the
back of the doll for the leg.
Stuff the legs while you
crocheting them.

Rnd 1-25. sc into each (11)
Rnd 26. dec 5 times, sc into last (6)
Stuff the leg firmly. Fasten off and
close up the small hole. Weave the
yarn into the leg. With the purple
yarn sew the hole between the legs.
For the other leg, rejoin
with a sl st at the back of the doll.
Crochet the other leg. Weave the
yarn into the body.

Skirt
With green yarn join with a sl st at
the back of the doll to the front loop
of round 6 of the body. Work in
rounds, but join with a sl st at the
end of each round.
Rnd 1. ch 2, {dc, inc} 15 times (45)
Rnd 2. ch 3, 2 dc into the same st,
{sk 1 st, 1 sc into next st, sk 1 st, 5 dc
into next} 10 times, sk 1 st, sc into
next, 2 dc next to the very first 2 dc
of the round. Join with a sl st into
the 3rd ch of ch 3. (10 shells) Change
to purple yarn, do not fasten off
green.

Rnd 3. [sc into the middle of the
shell, {dc, ch 2, dc} into the sc
between two shells] 11 times. Join
with a sl st into the very first st of
the round. Change to green yarn, do
not fasten off purple.
Rnd 4. [sc into the prev round sc, {5
dc into the ch 2 space of prev
round}] 11 times. Join with a sl st to
the very first sc. Change to purple
yarn, do not fasten off green yarn.

Rnd 5. ch 5, dc into the same st, [sc
into the middle of the prev round’s
shell, {dc, ch 2, dc} into prev round’s
sc between two shells] 11 times. Join
with a sl st into the 3rd ch of ch 5 at
the beginning of the round. Change
to green yarn, do not fasten off
purple.

Rnd 6. ch 3, 4 dc into the prev
round ch 2 space, [sc into prev
round sc, {5 dc into prev round ch 2
space}] 10 times, sc into the last sc
of prev round. Join with a sl st to the
3rd ch of ch 3 at the beginning.
Change to purple yarn, do not fasten
off green.
Rnd 7. rep round 5.
Rnd 8. rep round 6.

Rnd 9. rep round 5.
Rnd 10. rep round 6.
Rnd 11. rep round 5., fasten off
purple yarn.
Rnd 12. rep round 6.
Rnd 13. sl st into each st. Fasten off,
and weave the end into the skirt.

Arms
Start with the color of the body,
make two.
Rnd 1. 6 sc into mr (6)
Rnd 2. {sc, inc} 3 times (9)
Rnd 3-4. sc into each (9)
Rnd 5. {sc into 2, dec} 2 times, sc into
last st (7)
Rnd 6. sc into each (7)
Change to green yarn.
Rnd 7-18. sc into each (7)
Fasten off, and leave a long tail. Sew
the arms onto both sides of the doll.

With black thread embroider the
eyebrows between rounds 14 and 16.
With the color of the body embroider
the nose between rounds 19 and 20.
With pink yarn embroider a small
line between rounds 19 and 20
starting from the eyes outwards.

Hair
Start with brown yarn.
Rnd 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Rnd 2. inc each st (12)
Rnd 3. {sc, inc} 6 times (18)
Rnd 4. {sc into 2, inc} 6 times (24)
Rnd 5. {sc into 3, inc} 6 times (30)
Rnd 6. {sc into 4, inc} 6 times (36)
Rnd 7. {sc into 5, inc} 6 times (42)
Rnd 8. {sc into 6, inc} 6 times (48)
Rnd 9. {sc into 7, inc} 6 times (54)
Rnd 10-18. sc into each (54) Do not
fasten off, cont with the bangs.

Rnd 19. sc into 16, ch 5, sl st into the
2nd ch from the hook, and the next
3 st. Sc into 2 st on the wig,
ch 6, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 4 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig,
ch 7, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 5 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig,
ch 8, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 6 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig,
ch 9, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 7 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig,
ch 9, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 7 st. Sc into next,
sl st into next 2, sc into next on the
wig,
{ch 9, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 7 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig} twice,
ch 8, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 6 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig,
ch 7, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 5 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig,
ch 6, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 4 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig,
ch 5, sl st into the 2nd ch from the
hook, and the next 3 st. Sc into 2 st
on the wig. Fasten off, and leave a
long tail for sewing.

Braids
Ch 21, sc into the 2nd ch from hook,
and the next 19 st (20). Join with a sl
st to the wig between rounds 16.
and 17., 6 stitches from the first curl
of the bangs. *ch 21, sc into the 2nd
ch from hook, and the next 19 st,
join with a sl st into the same st.

Repeat once more from
*. Fasten off, and weave the yarn
into the wig. Make a braid, then
repeat on the other side of the wig
for the other braid. Sew the wig
onto the head with small stitches.

Hat
Start with gold yarn.
Rnd 1. 6 hdc into magic ring (6)
Rnd 2. inc each st (12)
Rnd 3. {hdc, inc} 6 times (18)
Rnd 4. {hdc into 2, inc} 6 times (24)
Rnd 5. {hdc into 3, inc} 6 times (30)
Rnd 6. {hdc into 4, inc} 6 times (36)
Rnd 7. {hdc into 5, inc} 6 times (42)
Rnd 8. {hdc into 6, inc} 6 times (48)
Rnd 9-14. hdc into each (48)
Rnd 15. {hdc, inc} 24 times FLO (72)
Rnd 16-17. hdc into each st (72)
Rnd 18. sl st into each st (72) Fasten
off, and weave the end into the hat

Boots
Start with dark green yarn, make two.
Rnd 1. ch 7, 2 sc into the 2nd ch from hook, sc into the next 4, 3 sc
into the last st, cont on the other side of the foundation chain, sc into
the next 4 st, 2 sc into the last st (15)
Rnd 2. inc twice, sc into the next 4, inc 3 times, sc into the next 4, inc twice (22)
Rnd 3. sc into each BLO (22)
Rnd 4. sc into each (22)
Rnd 5. sc into 8, dec 3 times, sc into 8 (19)
Rnd 6. sc into 7, dec 3 times, sc into 6 (16)
Rnd 7-9. sc into each (16)

Fasten off, and weave the end into the boots. With the gold yarn join with a
sl st to the front loop of round 2 of the boots. Crochet slip stitches
into each of the back loops. Fasten off, and weave ends into the boots. Stuff
the toe part of the boots lightly, then sew them onto the legs.

Robe
Start with gold yarn. Turn the piece at the end of each row. Ch 2 at the end
of each row doesn’t count as hdc.
Row 1. ch 20, turn, hdc into the 3rd ch from hook, and to the next 17 stitch
(18) ch 2, turn
Row 2. {hdc into 2, inc} 6 times (24) ch 2, turn
Row 3. {hdc into 2, inc} 8 times (32) ch 2, turn
Row 4. hdc, {hdc into 2, inc} 10 times, hdc into last (42) ch 2, turn

Row 5-13. hdc into each (42) Fasten off, and weave the end into the robe.
With dark green yarn join with a sl st into the left side of the robe, 1 st below the left corner. Crochet sc evenly onto the sides of the robe, adding 3 sc onto the corners on the bottom of the robe. When you reach the
upper right corner, crochet ch 20, sl st into the 2nd ch from hook and the next 18 st. Crochet sc continuously into each st on the top of the robe, then crochet ch 20, sl st into the 2nd ch from hook and the next 18 st to
make the other tie. Join with a sl st to the very first sc. Fasten off and weave
the yarn into the robe. Place it onto the doll.

More Amigurumi Doll İdeas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

MATERİAL USE:
Hook size: 2  mm
Yarn: YarnArt jeans
8 mm safety eyes
Fiberfill

ABBREVİATİONS:
ch: chain
mr = Magic ring
sc: single crochet
inc = increase (2 sc in the next stitch)
dec = decrease (single crochet 2 stitches together)
BLO: Back loop only
FLO: Front loop only
( )* 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

LEGS: (2 parts)
Start with yellow color
1) 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2) 6 inc (12)
3-6) sc in each st around (12)
Change the color to blue
7-13) sc in each st around (12)
When you finish first leg cut the yarn.
Do not cut the rope when you finish the second leg and knit 3 sc more
Connect the legs together. Knit the body in a circle.

BODY:
14) 3 sc, 12 sc on first leg, 3 sc on the chains, 12 sc on second leg, 3 sc on the chains (30)
15) BLO, (6 sc, inc)*3, 7 sc, inc, sc (34)
16) sc in each st around (34)
17) (7 sc, inc)*3, 8 sc, inc, sc (38)
18) sc in each st around (38)
19) 7 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 11 sc (40)
20) 7 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 11 sc (42)
21) sc in each st around (42)
22) 42 sc on the BLO (42)
Make the shift to 11 loops, marking the start of a number, change the color to pink
23-24) sc in each st around (42)
25) (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
26-28) sc in each st around (36)
29)(4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
30-32) sc in each st around (30)
33) (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
34) sc in each st around (24)
35) (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
36) sc in each st around (18)

NECK AND HEAD:
Change yarn color to yellow
37) (sc, dec)*6 (12)
38-42) sc in each st around (12)
43) (sc, inc)*6 (18)
44) sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, sc (24)
45) (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
46) 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36)
47) (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
48) 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48)
49) (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
50-57) sc in each st around (54)
58) (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
59) 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42)
60) (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
61) 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*6, 2 sc (30)
62) (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
63) sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, sc (18)
64)  (sc, dec)*6 (12)
65) 6 dec (6)

HORNS: (2 parts)
Start with yellow color
1) 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2) 6 inc (12)
3) sc in each st around (12)
Change with brown color
4) (2 sc, dec)*3 (9)
5-7) sc in each st around (9)
Fasten off.

EARS: (2 parts)
Start with yellow color
1) 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2) (sc, inc)*3 (9)
3) (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
4-7) sc in each st around (12)

HANDLES: (2 parts)
Start with yellow color
1) 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2) 6 inc (12)
3-15) sc in each st around (12)
Change the color to pink
16-20) sc in each st around (12)

MUZZLE:
Start with white color
6 zn, knit on both sides of the chain,
Starting from the 2nd ch:
1) 4 sc, 3 sc in the next ch, 3 sc, inc (12)
2) inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
3-4) sc in each st around (18)

THE TOP OF THE JUMPSUİT:
Start with blue color
1) Center the FLO of row 22th and knit 10 sc, return
2) 1 ch, 10 sc, return (10)
3) 1ch, dec, 8 sc, return (9)
4) 1ch, dec 7 sc, return (8)
5) 1ch, dec, 6 sc, return (7)
6) 1ch, dec, 5 sc (6)
Knit 20 sc, circle around the neck and join, connecting column to the top corner of the jumpsuit.

More Amigurumi Giraffe Ideas

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

SUPPLY LIST
Hooks : 4mm, 5mm, 6mm (sizes F, H, J) (UK 8, 6, 4)
Tapestry needle
Two small buttons
Safety Eyes : 2 x 10mm black safety eyes
Yarn:
Boots – Small amount of chunky yarn
Body – 100g/ 1 skein of chunky cream yarn
Hair – 70g of chunky yarn
Hair bow – small amount of DK yarn
Dress – DK yarn
Jacket – Either chunky or 2 different strands of DK

KEY (US terms)
Ch = chain
St = stitch
St(s) = stitches
Sl st. = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Dc = double crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Inc = increase – two sc’s in one space
Dec = decrease – two stitches become one (this will always be a SC decrease unless stated otherwise!)
Inv dec = 2 sc’s become 1 stitch
Sc dec = sc decrease (insert hook in next st, pull up loop, insert hook in 2nd st, pull up loop, YO, pull through the 3 loops on the hook)
Hdc dec = hdc decrease (YO, insert hook in next st, pull up loop, YO, insert in 2nd st, pull up loop, YO, pull through all 5 loops on the hook)
Dc Dec = Dc decrease (YO, insert hook in next st, pull up loop, YO, insert in 2nd st, pull up loop, YO, pull through the 4 loops on the hook, YO, pull through the last loops on hook)
5DC cluster = 5 Dc’s in the same stitch
Magic circle = Video Tutorial
Changing colours = Video Tutorial
( ) = number of stitches at end of round
* = repeat stitches in between

NOTES
The ch 1 doesn’t count as a stitch
The 1st stitch in each row is worked in the same stitch as the chain, except if stated otherwise.
Make sure to read when you are working in rows or rounds

BOOTS
4 mm hook – make 2 – Chunky yarn
Working in rows:
Row 1: Ch 5, Inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, sc 4 in the last st of the ch (these 4 will go around the end of the chain), cont. on the other side of the chain: sc 2, Inc, sl st (12)
Row2: Ch 1, Inc x 2, sc 2, Inc x 4, sc 2, Inc x 2, sl st. (20)
Row 3: Ch 1, Sc 20 in back loops only, sl st (20)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc 8, sc dec, sc , sc dec, sc 7, sl st (18)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc 6, hdc dec x 3, sc 6, sl st (15)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc 5, sc dec x 3, sc 4, sl st (12)
Row 7-11: Ch 1, sc 12, sl st (12)
DON’T fasten off. Continue with the legs.

LEGS
4mm hook – make 2 – Chunky yarn
Change to cream yarn for the legs and continue working IN THE ROUND from now on:
Rnd 1: Sk 1st st, sc 12 in back loops only (12)
Rnd 2-8: Sc 12 (12)
Rnd 9: Inv dec, sc 4 x 2 (10)
Rnd 10: Sc 10 (10)
Rnd 11: Sc 2, press the opening together and close up the leg with 5 sc(s)

ARMS
4mm hook – make 2 – Chunky yarn
Stuff the arms as you go
Rnd 1: Sc 4 in magic circle (4)
Rnd 2: Inc, sc 1 x 2 (6)
Rnd 3: Inc, sc 2 x 2 (8)
Rnd 4-12: Sc 8 (8)
Stop stuffing
Rnd 13: Inv dec, sc 2 x 2 (6)
Rnd 14: Close up with 3 sc (3)

BODY
4mm hook – Chunky yarn
Row 1: Ch 6. Inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, Inc in last st. Turn around and continue
on the other side of chain: Inc, sc 3, Inc (14)
Place stitch marker
Row 2: Inc x 2, sc 3, Inc x 4, sc 3, Inc x 2 (22)
Row 3: Sc 10, Inc x 2 (24)
Row 4-11: Sc 24 (24)
Start stuffing the body
Row 12: Inv dec, sc 4 x 4 (20)
Row 13: Sc 20 (20)
Row 14: Inv dec, sc 3 x 4 (16)
Row 15: Sc 16 (16)
Row 16: Inv dec, sc 2 x 4 (12)
Finish stuffing the body. Continue with the head, DON’T fasten off!

HEAD
4mm hook – Chunky yarn
Row 1: Inc x 12 (24)
Row 2: Inc, sc 3 x 6 (30)
Row 3: Sc 5, Inc x 5 (35)
Row 4: Sc 3, Inc, sc 3 x 5 (40)
Row 5-13: Sc 40 (40)
Attach eyes between row 9 and 10, 5 stitches apart (pic)
Start stuffing the head, and keep stuffing as you go.
Row 14: Sc 3, inv dec, sc 3 x 5 (35)
Row 15: Inv dec, sc 5 x 5 (30)
Row 16: Sc 2, inv dec, sc 2 x 5 (25)
Row 17: Inv dec, sc 3 x 5 (20)
Row 18: Sc 2, inv dec x 5 (15)
Row 19: Inv dec, sc x 5 (10)
Row 20: Inv dec x 3.
Take a tapestry needle and weave through remaining loops. Close up and fasten off. Pull tail into the head.

HAIR
start with 5 mm hook – Chunky yarn
Row 1 – 4 are worked in the round.
Rnd 1: Sc 6 in magic circle (6)
Rnd 2: Inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: Inc, sc x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, Inc x 6. Sc, sl st. (24)
Change to 6 mm hook
Work in rows from now on.
Row 1: sk 1 st, 4 hdc in same st, sk 1 st, sl st x 6 (6 clusters)
Row 2: 3 sl st(s) to top of cluster
Skip 1 st, 4 dc in between clusters, skip 2 stitches, sl st on top of cluster x 6 (6 clusters)
Row 3-5: Repeat row 2 (6 clusters)
Row 6: 3 sl st(s) to top of cluster. Sk 1 st, 4 dc in between clusters, skip 2 stitches, sl st on top of cluster x 4. Sk 1 st, 4 dc in between clusters, sk 1 st, sl st on top of cluster. (5 clusters)
Row 7: Turn, sk 1st st, 2 sl st(s) to top of cluster,
sk 2 st(s), 4Hdc in between clusters. Sk 1 st, sl st to top of cluster x 4
Change to 5 mm hook again
Row 8: Turn, sk 1st st, 2 sl st(s), Ch 1, sk 2 st(s), sc, Ch 1, sk 1 st, sl st x 3
FASTEN OFF. Leave about 40cm tail to sew on.
You can view a video of how I sew on the hair here.

PONYTAIL
5 mm hook – make 3
Row 1: Ch 23. Dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1, dc in same st, ch 1, sk 1 st, {dc, ch 1, dc} in next st rp to end. (10 V’s)
FASTEN OFF. Leave tail for sewing.
Sew onto the head right in the centre:

HAIR BOW
4 mm hook – DK yarn
Row 1: Ch 27, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 25 in rest of ch (26)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc 26 (26)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Dc 26 (26)
Row 4-5: Ch 1, turn. Sc 26 (26)
Put the two ends together and close-up with sl st(s)
Work onto the head just above the ponytail.

DRESS
4mm hook – DK yarn
Chain 24
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 22 in the remaining chains (23)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc Inc, sc x 11, Sc Inc (35)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc 6, Inc, Sc, Inc, Sc, Inc, Sc 13, Inc, Sc, Inc, Sc, Inc, Sc 6 (41)
Now we will be making the armholes of the dress:
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc, Inc, Sc, Inc, Sc, ch 2, sk 10 st(s), Sc, Inc, Sc x 5, ch 2, sk 10 st(s), Sc, Inc, Sc, Inc, Sc (34)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc 34 (34)
Row 6-10: Ch 1, turn. Sc 34 (34)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc 34, sl st to close-up the dress (34)
Row 12-15: Ch 1, turn. Sk 1st st, sc 34, sl st (34)
Row 16: Sk 1st st, In next st: Sc, Hdc 3, Sc. Sl st in next st x 16, sl st to 1st sl st made 16 (16 clusters)
Row 17: Ch 2, sk 2 st(s), sl st. Sk 2 st(s) and make a 5DC cluster in the sl st. Sk 2 st(s), sl st, sl 2 st(s), 5DC cluster x 16, sl st in 1st st of row (16 clusters)
Row 18-21: Ch 2, sl st in 3rd Dc. 5DC Shell in sl st, sl st in 3rd Dc x 16, sl st (16 clusters)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finish the dress with a border and a buttonhole:
Attach yarn to the back, on the right side, sc 10 down to the bottom of the opening, sc 7 up the left side, ch 4 (to form a buttonhole), sl st at the collar
Fasten off and weave in ends.

JACKET
5mm hook – 1 x strand Chunky or 2 x strands DK yarn

FRONT SIDE 1:
Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 11 in rest of ch (12)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc 12 (12)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc 4, dec, sc6 (11)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc 6, dec, sc 3 (10)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc 2, dec, sc 6 (9)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc 6, dec, sc (8)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc 6 (7)
Fasten off.

FRONT SIDE 2:
Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 11 in rest of ch (12)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc 12 (12)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc 6, dec, sc 4 (11)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc 3, dec, sc 6 (10)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc 6, dec, sc 2 (9)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc, dec, sc 6 (8)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc 6, dec (7)
Fasten off.

BACK:
Row 1: Attach yarn to the front SIDE 1
Sc 5 along the 1st 5 st(s) of SIDE 1, ch 10, sk the 1st 7 st(s) of the front SIDE 2, sc 5 along the last 5 st(s) of SIDE 2 (20)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc 5, sc 10 along the ch, sc 5 (20)
Row 3-4: Ch 1, turn. Sc 20 (20)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc 3, dec, sc 10, dec, sc 3 (18)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc 2, dec, sc 10, dec, sc 2 (16)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc, dec, sc 10, dec, sc (14)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Dec, sc 10, dec (12)
Fasten off.

Assembling the jacket parts:
Attach yarn to the corner of SIDE
Row 9: Ch 1, Sc 7, sc 15 around the armhole, sc 12 along the back, sc 15 around the 2nd armhole, sc 7 (56)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc 7, ch 1, sk the 15 st(s), sc 12, ch 1, sk 15 st(s), sc 7 (28)
Row 11-15: Ch 1, turn. Sc 28 (28)
DON’T fasten off! Continue with border around the jacket:
Ch 1, sc in same st, sc 10 up along the jacket opening, ch 4 (for the buttonhole), sc on the corner of the collar, sc 7 across SIDE 1, sc on shoulder, sc 10 across the back, sc on shoulder, sc 7 across SIDE 2 (26 in total across collar), ch 1 at corner, sc in same st, sc 13 down the other side of the jacket opening, sl st at bottom of the jacket.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sew on a button for the jacket and the dress.

More Amigurumi Doll Ideas

Materials:
– yarn “iris” or “alize forever”. (or any other
yarn you like;
– sewing threads to give the chameleon the desired shades;
– hook No. 1,1 or suitable for your chosen yarn;
– filler for toys;
– thin wire;
– glue;
– a long needle for tightening;
– glass eyes 8-10mm;

Abbreviations:
SC – single crochet;
DEC – decrease (2 sc knit together);
İNC – increase (2 sc in one loop of the previous row);
CH– chain;
SL-ST – slip-stitch;

Head-Body-Tail

Knit in three threads (one “iris”, and two sewing)

1-6 sc into magic ring

2-6 inc = 12 sc

3-12 sc = 12sc

4- 1 sc, 1 inc = 18 sc

5-18 sc = 18 sc

6-2 sc, 1 inc = 24 sc

7-24 sc = 24 sc

8- 3 sc, 1 inc = 30 sc

9-30 sc = 30 sc

10-30 sc = 30 sc

11-30 sc = 30 sc

12-30 sc = 30 sc

13- For the back half-loop 30 sc = 30 sc

14- For the front half loop 7 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 26 sc

15-26 sc = 26 sc

Here you can remove the sewing threads and then knit only with “iris” yarn.

16-12 sc, 2 inc, 12 sc = 28 sc

17-13 sc, 2 inc, 13 sc = 30 sc

18-14 sc, 2 inc, 13 sc = 31 sc

19-15 sc, 1 inc, 15 sc = 32 sc

20-15 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc = 33 sc

21-16 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc = 34 sc

22-16 sc, 1 inc, 17 sc = 35 sc

23-17 sc, 1 inc, 17 sc = 36 sc

24- 36 sc = 36 sc

25-36 sc = 36 sc

26-36 sc = 36 sc

27- 36 sc = 36 sc

28-17 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc = 35 sc

29-17 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc = 34 sc

30-16 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc = 33 sc

31-16 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 32 sc

32-15 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 31 sc

33-15 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 30 sc

34-14 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 29 sc

35-14 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc = 28 sc

36–13 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc = 27 sc

37-13 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc = 26 sc

38-11 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, 1 inc = 25 sc

39-10 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, 1 inc = 24 sc

Here you can add sewing threads. Stuff in the knitting process, pretty

tight.

40-10 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc, 1 inc = 23 sc

41 – 9 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc, 1 inc = 22 sc

42-9 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, 1 inc = 21 sc

43-8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, 1 inc = 20 sc

44-8 sc, 2 dec, 7sc, 1 inc = 19 sc

45-7 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 1 inc = 18 sc

46-7 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 1 inc = 17 sc

47-6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 1 inc = 16 sc

48-6 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 1 inc = 15 sc

49-5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 1 inc = 14 sc

50-5 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 1 inc = 13 sc

At this stage, take a wire about 20 cm long and, having previously done

hole in the filler with a knitting needle, insert it as deep as possible. This will be the tail frame

our chameleon. Then we knit around the wire.

51-4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 1 inc = 12 sc

52-4 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 1 inc = 11 sc

53-3 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 1 inc = 10 sc

54-3 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, 1 inc = 9 sc

55 – 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, 1 inc = 8 sc

56 – 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc = 6 sc

57- In a circle, around the wire we knit 100 sc.

58- Dec before closing.

Next, we do eye tightening. (See photo.)

We glue the eyes, on the back we embroider the “bumps” with sewing thread (in my

6 threads were inserted at once), embroider a smile)).

The design of the eyelids.

25 sc into magic ring, do not tighten much, trying on eyes. Sew eyelids.

Paws

1- 4sc into magic ring = 4 sc

2-4 sc = 4 sc

3-4 sc = 4 sc

4-4 sc = 4 sc

5- 4 ch we turn the knitting and starting from

second hook loop: 1 sl-st, 2 sc, 1 sl-st in

start loop = 4 sc + finger

6- Next in a circle 52 sc

7- At this stage, take a long wire

about 10cm -2 pcs and, having previously done

hole in the filler with a knitting needle, insert it.

This will be the foot frame (See photo.) Then

put on our knitted, legs on the frame of

wire and sew. To wire

well entered the paws, previously

insert the needle into it

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials
Color thread you want.
Needle
Scissors
Fiber
Sequence determiner
Eye

Head
1) into the magic ring (6 sc)
2) Double prick for each frequent needle (12 sc)
3) 1 sc, 1 inc (18 sc)
4) 2 sc, 1 inc (24 sc)
5) 3 sc, 1 inc (30 sc)
6) 4 sc, 1 inc (36 sc)
7) 5 sc, 1 inc (42 sc)
8) 6 sc, 1 inc (48 sc)
9) 48 sc
10) 48 sc
11) 48 sc
12) 48 sc
13) 48 sc
14) 48 sc
15) 48 sc
16) 48 sc
17) 12 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 4 times, 7 sc (nose part), (1 sc, 1
inc) Repeat 4 times, 13 sc (56) = Meanwhile 4 sc in the cheeks i.e. 8 sc in total
we increase.
18) 56 sc
19) 56 sc
20) 56 sc
21) 56 sc
22) In the meantime, make the 4 sc that we have increased on the cheeks in the same line. We decrease it as we increase. So in total 8 sc will be reduced. (48 sc)
23) 6 sc, 1 dec (42 sc)
24) 5 sc, 1 dec (36 sc)
25) 4 sc, 1 dec (30 sc)
26) 3 sc, 1 dec (24 sc)
27) 2 sc, 1 dec (18 sc)
28) 1 sc, 1 dec (12 sc)
Fill it with fiber.

Wig and Hair
1) into the magic ring (6 sc)
2) Double sink for each tight needle (12 sc)
3) 1 sc, 1 inc (18 sc)
4) 2 sc, 1 inc (24 sc)
5) 3 sc, 1 inc (30 sc)
6) 4 sc, 1 inc (36 sc)
7) 5 sc, 1 inc (42 sc)
8) 6 sc, 1 inc (48 sc)
9) 48 sc
10) 48 sc
11) 48 sc
12) 48 sc
13) 48 sc
14) 48 sc
15) (15 sc, 1 inc) 3 times (51 sc)
16) 51 sc
17) 51 sc
18) 10 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc (inc), 12 dc, 9 sc
We tie it with 1 loop shift and cut the rope.

Hair Bun
1) into the magic ring (6 sc)
2) Double sink for each tight needle (12 sc)
3) 1 sc, 1 inc (18 sc)
4) 2 sc, 1 inc (24 sc)
5) 3 sc, 1 inc (30 sc)
6) 30 sc
7) 30 sc
8) 30 sc
9) 30 sc
10) (3 sc, 1 dec) 24 sc
11) (2 sc, 1 dec) 18 sc
12) (1 sc, 1 dec) 12 sc
Fill it with fiber and cut the thread. Sew on the head.

Bow Tie
Pull 23 ch and join the chain. Make 20 dc from the 3rd chain. Leaving the rope long fold it in half and sew it to the bun.

Shoe
1) 7 ch
2) Starting from the 2nd chain, circle the chain by making 6 needles at each other. (12 sc)
3) increase by 3 each from the front and back of the shoe (18 sc)
4) increase by 3 each from the front and back of the shoe (24 sc)
5) 24 sc
6) 24 sc
7) Switch to socks color. Decrease 6 loops from the front of the shoe (18 sc)
8) decrease 3 loops from the front of the shoe (15 sc)
9) 15 sc
10) 15 sc
11) 15 sc
12) 15 sc
13) sock ruff; Pull 2 ​​chains, turn the shoe in your hand and move it in the opposite direction. FLO shaped we will knit the front part of the loops. Tie it with the loop scroll pulling 2 chains. The whole order like this
Finish.

Legs
14) Switch to skin color, take the loops on the back of the piece we knitted as flo on the upper part of the sock and knit 15 in the form of BLO.
15) Make 14 sc, reduce 1 from the decrates
16-33) 14 frequent needles

Body
34) Draw 4 chains between the two legs and join them (36 frequent needles)
35) Increase 1 loop on each side. (38 frequent needles)
36-46) 38 sc
47) Switch to the color of the outfit. Knit only the back loops with the blo technique (38 sc).
Continue the outfit by making color transitions as desired between 48-50. (38 frequent needles)
51) Decrease one row under the arms. (36 frequent needles)
52-57) Decrease one row under the arms. (24 frequent needles)
58) After the arms are filled, the arms are attached to the body with 3-4 stitches combined with the loop shift method. (24 frequent needles)
59) 1 sc, 1 sc, dec (18 sc)
60) collar frill; 2 channels Turn the body over in your hand and move in the opposite direction. (We will knit the front part of the loops in the shape of flo. Let’s make 2 chains and combine them with a loop shift. Let’s combine the whole row in this way.
61) Switch to skin color. Knit the remaining loops in the back (18 sc)
62-64) You can cut the neck (18) rope. Sew the head with a longitudinal loop.

Arms
1) 6 sc into the magic ring (with skin color)
2) (1 sc, 1 inc (9 sc)
3-6) 9 sc
7-19) 9 sc (clothing color)

Skirt
1) Start the 47th row of the size by looping the skirt color.
(We’ll go in the opposite direction.)
Make 2 dc to each loop by making 3 ch (76 dc)
2) 1 dc, 1 inc (104 dc)
3) 104 dc
4) 104 dc
5) 104 dc
6) 104 dc
7) Change color. Make 104 sc and cut the thread.

Patterns Made With This Recipe